Sunscreen Spray Formulation: Lightweight, Non-Sticky, Makeup-Friendly SPF50+ PA+++
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I have the ingredients for a sunscreen spray but don't have the proportions. Could you please provide the proportions or suggest additional ingredients to improve its performance?
The product I tried felt lightweight on the face, was not sticky during the day, and could be sprayed over makeup. It was also odorless. The product label stated SPF50+ PA+++.
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Recommendations for a Lightweight, Makeup-Friendly SPF50+ PA+++ Sunscreen Spray
Thank you for your question. I understand you have a list of ingredients for a sunscreen spray but lack the proportions, and you are seeking guidance on ratios or suggestions for additional ingredients to enhance performance, specifically for an SPF50+ PA+++ formula that is non-greasy, non-sticky, can be sprayed over makeup, and is odorless.
While I cannot provide exact proportions for your specific formula, as cosmetic formulation is complex and often proprietary, the precise ratios of ingredients are crucial for achieving the desired SPF/PA level (like SPF50+ PA+++) and product characteristics (non-greasy, makeup-friendly, odorless). These ratios depend heavily on the specific types and grades of UV filters, film formers, emollients, and other additives used.
However, I can provide general information about the types of ingredients commonly used in sunscreen sprays with the properties you described. To achieve high SPF/PA, a lightweight feel, non-greasiness, and compatibility with makeup, formulators often use the following types of components:
1. UV Filters
Achieving SPF50+ PA+++ requires highly effective UV filters that cover both UVA and UVB rays. This often involves a combination of chemical and/or physical filters, such as:
- Octocrylene: A chemical filter protecting against UVB and short UVA, often used with Avobenzone for stability.
- Homosalate: A chemical filter effective against UVB, also useful as a solvent for some powder UV filters.
- Bisoctrizole (e.q. Tinosorb M): A broad-spectrum filter covering UVB, UVA I, and UVA II, easily dispersible in water.
- Drometrizole Trisiloxane (e.q. Mexoryl XL): A filter protecting against UVA and UVB with high photostability.
- Na-Ecamsule (e.q. Mexoryl SX): A water-soluble filter effective against UVA with high stability.
- Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion): A physical filter with ultra-small particles that provides UV protection without leaving a white cast, suitable for lightweight formulas.
2. Film Formers
These ingredients are vital for helping the sunscreen adhere to the skin, creating a durable, water-resistant film, and enabling application over makeup without disturbing it. Examples include:
- UV35 (Polyurethane-35): A film former that significantly boosts SPF and PA values, enhances water resistance, and can help reduce irritation from some UV filters.
- Allianz OPT (Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer): A polymer film former providing water and wear resistance without significantly increasing viscosity, ideal for spray or low-viscosity formulas.
- Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft): An acrylate silicone film that helps coat makeup and sunscreen for long-lasting, waterproof wear and a soft skin feel.
3. Light Emollients/Solvents
To achieve a lightweight, non-greasy texture and help dissolve or disperse UV filters and other ingredients effectively, lightweight emollients and solvents are used:
- LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate): A very light, non-greasy, fast-absorbing emollient that doesn't clog pores and provides a smooth feel similar to silicones.
- Dimethicone (Very Light/5, Ultra Light/1.5): Low-viscosity silicones that provide a very light, smooth, easy-to-spread feel without stickiness.
- Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate: A lightweight ester that effectively dissolves UV filter ingredients.
4. Example Ready-to-Use Sunscreen Spray Bases
If you prefer not to start from scratch, using a pre-made sunscreen spray base with similar properties can be an option:
- Clear Sprayable Sunscreen (Super Light, SPF40): A clear, liquid, super light, non-sticky spray base with SPF40 PA++, suitable for further customization.
- Light Invisible Sunscreen (SPF50+, PA++++): A very light, non-whitening serum base offering high protection SPF50+ PA++++.
Further Suggestions:
- Improving Performance: If your existing ingredient list includes components from these categories, adjusting their proportions or adding specific film formers and lightweight emollients from the list above might help achieve better texture and makeup compatibility.
- Testing: Formulation development requires rigorous testing for ingredient compatibility, formula stability, and SPF/PA measurement to ensure the desired performance is achieved.
If you can share the list of ingredients you have, I might be able to provide more specific insights into their roles and suggest complementary ingredients from the categories mentioned that could enhance your formula.
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Octocrylene
Homosalate
LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate)
Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft)
Dimethicone (Very Light/5, Low-Odor)
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate
Bisoctrizole (MBBT, e.q. Tinosorb M)
Dimethicone (Ultra Light/1.5, Low-Odor)
Na-Ecamsule (eq. Mexoryl SX)
Diethyl Adipate
Drometrizole Trisiloxane (e.q. Mexoryl XL)
Clear Sprayable Sunscreen (Super Light, SPF40)