Sweeteners and BHA for Lip Balm Formulation

Here is information regarding sweeteners compatible with oil/wax bases for lip balm and the use of Salicylic Acid (BHA) for lip exfoliation.

Sweeteners for Lip Balm

Regular sugar is not soluble in oil or wax bases, making it unsuitable for lip balm formulations. To achieve a sweet taste in lip balm, you need to use oil-soluble sweeteners or flavorings.

• Oil-Soluble Sweetener: A good option is an oil-based sweetener specifically designed for lip products, such as LipX®-Sweet (Oil-Based Sweetener). This type of sweetener is soluble in oils and fats, can withstand heat during the formulation process, and provides sweetness without the grainy texture of undissolved sugar. It is a natural sweetener derived from Stevia.
• Flavor Oils: As mentioned by the staff, using food-grade flavor oils is another popular method. These oils are designed to be compatible with oil bases and provide both flavor and a perception of sweetness, similar to how flavored candies work. Look for flavor oils specified as oil-soluble and suitable for food or lip products.

Using BHA (Salicylic Acid) in Lip Balm

Salicylic Acid (BHA) is an exfoliant that can help remove dead skin cells, potentially making lips look fresher. However, the skin on the lips is significantly thinner and more sensitive than the skin on the face.

• Concentration: It is crucial to use a very low concentration of Salicylic Acid (BHA) in lip products. As recommended, starting with a concentration as low as 0.1% is advisable to minimize the risk of irritation. This is much lower than typical concentrations used on facial skin.
• pH Level: BHA is most effective as an exfoliant in acidic environments (low pH, typically around 3-4 for facial skin). However, formulating an oil/wax-based lip balm at such a low pH is challenging and can cause significant irritation and burning on the sensitive lip skin. For lip balms, prioritizing a safe, low concentration of BHA is more important than strictly adhering to the optimal exfoliating pH, as irritation can severely damage the lip barrier. Therefore, while BHA requires some acidity to work, attempting to force a very low pH in a lip balm is generally not recommended. The focus should be on gentle exfoliation at a safe concentration.

When formulating, always test the product on a small area first to check for any adverse reactions, especially when using active ingredients like BHA on sensitive areas like the lips.