Thickening Issues with DMAE, AnyGel, and Acrylates Copolymer in Gel Formulation

Question

I am trying to create a gel formulation containing DMAE using AnyGel (Dehydroxanthan Gum) and ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER as thickeners. I am encountering issues with achieving the desired gel texture.

Could you please advise on:

What percentage of DMAE is being used in the formulation?
What is the order of ingredient addition? Specifically, is the gel texture created first before adding DMAE, or is DMAE mixed with water first before adding the thickener and creating the gel texture?

Understanding the DMAE concentration and mixing method is crucial for troubleshooting the thickening problem and recommending the appropriate steps or alternative thickeners.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on your question and the staff's reply, it seems the issue with thickening your formulation containing DMAE might be related to the compatibility of the thickeners with DMAE, which is an alkaline ingredient. Some thickeners, especially acrylate-based polymers, can lose viscosity in the presence of electrolytes or at certain pH levels.

To help you troubleshoot and recommend a suitable thickener or method, please provide the following information as requested by the staff:

What percentage of DMAE are you using in your formulation?
What is the order of addition for your ingredients? Specifically, are you creating the gel texture first and then adding DMAE, or are you mixing DMAE with water and then adding the thickener?

Knowing the concentration of DMAE and the mixing method is crucial because:

DMAE can interfere with the thickening mechanism of some polymers.
The order of adding ingredients can affect how well the thickener hydrates and forms a gel in the presence of other components like DMAE.

While you mentioned using ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER and Dehydroxanthan Gum (AnyGel), some specific grades of these thickeners offer better tolerance to electrolytes and varying pH levels. For example, certain Carbomer grades like Carbomer U21, Carbomer U20, and Carbomer 2020 (which are types of Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) are designed for electrolyte tolerance. AnyGel (Dehydroxanthan Gum) is also known for good resistance to acids, alkalis, and electrolytes.

Once you provide the details about your DMAE concentration and mixing method, we can give you more specific advice, which might include:

Adjusting the concentration of your current thickener (within the recommended usage rate).
Changing the order of ingredient addition.
Suggesting an alternative thickener that is more compatible with your specific formulation.