Toner Formulation for Oily, Sensitive, Acne-Prone Skin
Question
I am formulating a toner for oily, sensitive, acne-prone skin. I plan to use the following ingredients:
- Complex Salicylic Acid 5%
- Glycolic Acid 5%
- Natural Betaine
- Glycerin
- Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin + Caprylyl Glycol) 1%
Is this formula suitable for the target skin type? I am concerned about potential irritation.
Answer
Subject: Regarding your toner formula for oily, sensitive, acne-prone skin
Thank you for your question about the toner formula.
As the previous response mentioned, the proposed formula is likely too harsh for sensitive skin due to the high concentrations of both Salicylic Acid (BHA) and Glycolic Acid (AHA) used together.
- Using Complex Salicylic Acid at 5% (equivalent to 2% Salicylic Acid) can already be irritating for some skin types.
- Combining this with 5% Glycolic Acid (AHA) significantly increases the potential for irritation, redness, dryness, and sensitivity, especially on skin that is already sensitive and acne-prone.
For oily, sensitive, acne-prone skin, it is generally recommended to use lower concentrations of these acids or to use them separately. A concentration of 0.5% to 2% Salicylic Acid is typically used in toners for acne. Glycolic Acid concentration in toners is often lower than 10%, and for sensitive skin, even lower concentrations (e.g., 5% or less) are preferred, or it might be better to avoid combining it with BHA.
Using both AHA and BHA at high concentrations simultaneously can compromise the skin barrier.
The other ingredients like Natural Betaine and Glycerin are good for hydration and soothing, which is helpful, but they may not fully counteract the irritation from the high acid levels.
The staff's suggestion to use Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin + Caprylyl Glycol) at 1% as a preservative is suitable.
We recommend reconsidering the concentrations of Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid or choosing just one active exfoliant at a lower, safer concentration suitable for sensitive skin.
Related Products Mentioned
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) Powder)