Troubleshooting Your Matte Liquid Lipstick Formulation

It sounds like you've encountered some common challenges when making matte liquid lipstick! The issues you described – heavy feel, tightness, not matte, hardening upon cooling, white flakes, and pale color – are likely due to the manufacturing process, specifically how the ingredients were heated and cooled.

Based on the formula and the instructions provided by the Staff, the key to success lies in following the recommended heating and cooling steps precisely. Here's a breakdown of why the issues occurred and how to fix them:

Causes and Solutions

1. Heavy Feel, Tightness, Not Matte, Hardening: Your formula contains Microcrystalline Wax and Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene (Oil Film), which are crucial for building the lipstick's structure and creating a matte film. Heating all ingredients together and then letting them cool without continuous stirring prevents these components from setting correctly. The wax can solidify unevenly, leading to a heavy, non-matte, and potentially lumpy texture.

   • Solution: Follow the Staff's instructions: Heat the Microcrystalline Wax first until liquid, then add Isododecane while maintaining heat. Once combined, add the Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene. After these liquid components are mixed, gradually add the powders (Silk Mica Powder and EasyMix colors) while stirring. Crucially, remove from heat and stir continuously as the mixture cools. This ensures the wax and powders remain evenly dispersed as the lipstick sets, resulting in a smooth, lightweight, matte finish.

2. White Flakes and Pale Color: This is a direct result of the powders (Silk Mica Powder and EasyMix colors) not being properly dispersed in the liquid base. If they aren't fully incorporated and kept suspended during cooling, they will settle or clump, causing flaking and a weaker, paler color payoff.

   • Solution: As mentioned above, add the powders gradually to the warm liquid base and stir thoroughly to ensure they are fully dispersed before the mixture cools. Continuous stirring during cooling is also essential to keep the pigments and mica evenly distributed.

Additional Tips

• Adding Moisture: The provided formula is designed for a matte, long-wearing finish. Adding too much of a traditional emollient might compromise the matte property and transfer resistance. If you follow the correct method and still find it too drying, you could experiment with adding a small amount of a very light, non-greasy emollient that is compatible with the formula, such as certain types of Ester Oils or volatile Silicone Oils. However, this should be done cautiously and in small percentages, as it can affect the final texture and wear. Getting the technique right first is the best approach to achieve a comfortable matte finish.
• Cleaning Equipment: Since the formula contains waxes and oils, it's difficult to wash with just water. Use hot water and dish soap to help melt and emulsify the residue. Alternatively, you can use a solvent like Isododecane (if you have extra) or other cosmetic solvents to wipe down the equipment before washing with hot, soapy water.

By carefully following the recommended mixing and cooling process, you should be able to achieve the desired matte texture and even color payoff for your liquid lipstick.