Troubleshooting Oil and Color Incorporation in Reshape Gel™ Formulations

Asked by: punjira On: July 25, 2025 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating with Reshape Gel™. After the gel has formed, I'm encountering an issue where the added oil and color do not integrate well, even after incorporating emulsifiers. I used Lauryl PEG-10 Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone at 5% and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone at 3%. What could be the reason for this incompatibility?

Answer

When working with Reshape Gel™, it's important to consider its specific characteristics for oil and color incorporation:

  • Oil Content Limit: Reshape Gel™ is designed to combine with oils, but the oil phase should not exceed 10% of your total formula. If your oil content is higher than this, it can lead to instability and separation, making it difficult for the oil and color to integrate properly.
  • Mixing Procedure for Oil: The recommended method for adding oil to a Reshape Gel™ formulation is to incorporate it after the gel has fully formed and set. This means you should first prepare your Reshape Gel™ base according to its instructions (heating to 70-80°C briefly until melted, then stirring until set), and then gradually add your oil phase while continuing to stir.
  • Expected Appearance: Please note that when oil is included in a Reshape Gel™ formula, the resulting gel will be opaque, not clear, unlike a pure water-based gel.
  • Emulsifier Compatibility: The emulsifiers you mentioned, Lauryl PEG-10 Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, are typically used for water-in-silicone or water-in-oil emulsions. While they are effective emulsifiers, their primary function is to create and stabilize an emulsion, not necessarily to help incorporate an oil phase into an existing water-based gel structure like Reshape Gel™ if the oil content is too high or the mixing method isn't followed precisely. The issue might stem more from the gel's capacity for oil and the mixing sequence rather than the emulsifiers themselves.

Recommendations:

  1. Check Oil Percentage: Verify that your total oil content is within the 10% limit for Reshape Gel™.
  2. Ensure Gel Formation First: Make sure the Reshape Gel™ has completely formed and cooled before you begin adding your oil and color.
  3. Gradual Addition with Stirring: Add the oil and color very slowly to the pre-formed gel while continuously stirring to allow for proper dispersion and incorporation.
  4. Consider Oil Type: Some oils are more challenging to incorporate than others. If you're using a very polar or non-polar oil, it might require more careful mixing.

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