Using Essential Oils in Shampoo Formulation

Asked by: seesawseen57 On: January 10, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a shampoo formula and want to replace the fragrance with essential oils.

My current formula is:

  • Water: 3000 g
  • N8000: 1000 g
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 100 g
  • COCAMIDE MEAPEARL SHINE CONCENTRATE: 100 g
  • Lamesoft: 100 g
  • COCAMIDE DIethanolAMIDESUDS BOOSTER: 100 g

Could you please advise on:

  1. The maximum usage rate for essential oils in this shampoo formula?
  2. How to calculate the required amount of essential oil based on the total batch size?
  3. Any general tips or considerations when incorporating essential oils into this type of shampoo base?

Answer

Using Essential Oils in Shampoo

You're looking to replace fragrance with essential oils in your shampoo formula and want to know the maximum usage rate and how to calculate percentages. You also asked for general tips on shampoo making.

Let's first look at your current formula and calculate the percentages:

Your Shampoo Formula:

  • Water: 3000 g
  • N8000: 1000 g
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 100 g
  • COCAMIDE MEAPEARL SHINE CONCENTRATE: 100 g
  • Lamesoft: 100 g
  • COCAMIDE DIethanolAMIDESUDS BOOSTER: 100 g

Total Weight = 4400 g

Percentage Breakdown:

  • Water: (3000 / 4400) * 100% ≈ 68.18%
  • N8000: (1000 / 4400) * 100% ≈ 22.73%
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine: (100 / 4400) * 100% ≈ 2.27%
  • COCAMIDE MEAPEARL SHINE CONCENTRATE: (100 / 4400) * 100% ≈ 2.27%
  • Lamesoft: (100 / 4400) * 100% ≈ 2.27%
  • COCAMIDE DIethanolAMIDESUDS BOOSTER: (100 / 4400) * 100% ≈ 2.27%

Using Essential Oils:

Essential oils are potent and should be used at low concentrations in shampoo. A typical usage rate for essential oils in rinse-off products like shampoo is between 0.5% and 1%. Using too much can cause skin irritation or affect the product's stability and clarity. Your formula contains surfactants which will help incorporate the oil, but it's still best to start low (e.g., 0.5%) and test.

To calculate the amount for a larger batch, determine your desired total batch weight and multiply by the percentage. For example, for a 1000g batch with 0.5% essential oil, you would add 1000g * 0.005 = 5g of essential oil.

Additional Shampoo Making Tips:

  1. pH Adjustment: Ensure the final shampoo pH is between 5.0 and 6.5 for optimal hair and scalp health and product stability. Use a pH meter/strips and adjust with citric acid/lactic acid (to lower) or sodium hydroxide (to raise) if needed.
  2. Preservation: A broad-spectrum preservative is essential for any water-based product to prevent microbial growth.
  3. Viscosity: Your current ingredients contribute to thickness. If you need to adjust viscosity, use a suitable thickener.
  4. Testing: Always make a small test batch first to check for stability, clarity, viscosity, foam, and scent before making a large batch.