Using Lanofree™ in Hair Conditioner

You asked if Lanofree™ can replace Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) and Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC) in a hair conditioner formula.

Lanofree™ and cationic conditioning agents like BTAC and CTAC function differently in hair conditioner formulations:

• Lanofree™ (Synthetic Lanolin): This ingredient is a synthetic ester designed to mimic the properties of natural lanolin. It acts primarily as an emollient and conditioning agent by forming a coating on the hair shaft. This coating helps provide shine, adds weight, and can contribute to a smooth feel. It is oil-soluble and typically incorporated into the oil phase of a formulation.
• Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) and Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC): These are cationic (positively charged) conditioning agents. Hair naturally carries a negative charge. BTAC and CTAC are attracted to the negatively charged areas of the hair, neutralizing static electricity and reducing tangling. They adsorb onto the hair surface, providing slip, softness, and manageability. They are typically mixed into the water phase with heat.

Because their mechanisms of action are different, Lanofree™ cannot directly replace BTAC or CTAC. BTAC and CTAC provide the primary anti-static and detangling benefits characteristic of many conditioners due to their positive charge interacting with hair's negative charge. Lanofree™ provides emolliency, shine, and a coating effect, which are complementary benefits.

As suggested previously, you can add Lanofree™ to a conditioner formula that uses BTAC and/or CTAC to gain the benefits of both types of ingredients.

Here is an example of a basic hair conditioner formula using BTAC and CTAC, which you can adapt and add Lanofree™ to:

Example Hair Conditioner Formula

1. Water: 86%
2. Cetearyl Alcohol: 8%
3. Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC): 2%
4. Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC): 1%
5. Propylene Glycol: 1%
6. Pure Keratin: 1%
7. Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%

Procedure:

• Mix ingredients 2, 3, 4, and 5 together and heat to 70°C.
• Add this mixture to ingredient 1 (Water) and blend or stir well.
• Allow the mixture to cool to no more than 40°C, then add ingredients 6 and 7.

Adding Lanofree™:
To incorporate Lanofree™ (Synthetic Lanolin) into this formula, you would add it to the mixture of ingredients 2, 3, 4, and 5 in the first step. Lanofree™ is oil-soluble and requires heat (40-45°C) to dissolve, so mixing it with the fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants before adding to the water phase at 70°C is appropriate. A typical usage rate for Lanofree™ in hair care is 1-50%, depending on the desired texture and conditioning level. You might start with a lower percentage, such as 1-5%, and adjust based on your results.

Other conditioning agents like Poly-Conditioner Pro can also be used in hair formulations, often as a silicone-free alternative or in combination with other conditioners, providing softness, smoothness, and viscosity.

Ultimately, the best combination and percentage of ingredients will depend on the specific feel and performance you desire for your hair type. Experimenting with adding Lanofree™ to a base formula containing BTAC and/or CTAC is recommended.