Using Phytosphingosine SA in Hyaluronic Acid Water Essence

Asked by: rynznongya On: June 22, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Can Phytosphingosine SA be added to a hyaluronic acid water essence? Will it cause color change or increase viscosity/thickness?

Answer

Using Phytosphingosine SA in a Hyaluronic Acid Water Essence

Based on the properties of Phytosphingosine SA, it is not suitable for direct addition into a water-based hyaluronic acid essence (น้ำตบไฮยา).

Here's why:

  • Solubility: Phytosphingosine SA is a powder that requires dissolution in an oil phase, specifically needing Octyldodecanol at a concentration of 6-14% depending on the usage rate of Phytosphingosine SA.
  • Mixing Conditions: It requires heating the oil phase to a high temperature (80-90°C) and strong blending (using a Dissolver/Disperse Head or Homogenizer) to ensure complete dissolution. Without proper dissolution, it will precipitate (crystallize) and will not be effective.

A typical hyaluronic acid water essence is primarily water-based with little to no oil phase, and is usually processed at lower temperatures without the need for high-shear blending required for dissolving Phytosphingosine SA.

Adding Phytosphingosine SA directly to such a formula would likely result in the powder not dissolving, leading to precipitation or sedimentation rather than changing the color to dark or significantly increasing the overall viscosity/thickness in the way an emulsifier or thickener would. The formula would also not be stable or effective.

Phytosphingosine SA is best used in emulsion-based formulations (like creams or lotions) where an oil phase is present and the required heating and blending steps can be incorporated.

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