Using Protease Enzyme for Skin Exfoliation

Protease enzymes are effective exfoliants that work by breaking down proteins in the skin's outer layer, helping to shed dead skin cells. There are different types available, including standard Protease Enzyme and stabilized versions like Bio-S Protease™.

Usage Concentration and Frequency

Using Protease Enzyme at 0.5% concentration is within the recommended range for skin exfoliation. However, whether it can be used daily depends on the specific type of enzyme and your skin's tolerance.

• Standard Protease Enzyme: This type has low stability when mixed with water, losing effectiveness within about 30 minutes. It's typically used in water-free powder formulas (like mask powders or cleansing powders) that are mixed with water right before application. Daily use of a strong exfoliant like this might lead to over-exfoliation and potential skin damage, even at 0.5%, depending on the contact time and individual skin sensitivity.
• Stabilized Protease Enzyme (e.g., Bio-S Protease™): This type is more stable in water and can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. While it's designed for gentle exfoliation, daily use still depends on the overall formula and your skin type. It's generally advisable to start with less frequent use (e.g., 1-3 times per week) and observe how your skin responds before considering daily application.

Using Protease Enzyme as a Treatment (like an AHA peel)

Yes, 1% Protease Enzyme can potentially be used as a short-contact treatment similar to an AHA peel, applied for 5-15 minutes and then washed off.

• For Standard Protease Enzyme, 1% is at the higher end of the recommended usage rate (0.1-1%). It is highly effective, and exceeding this concentration or leaving it on for too long can cause severe results and skin damage, as noted by staff. The 5-15 minute timeframe is suitable given its limited stability in water.
• For Stabilized Protease Enzyme (e.g., Bio-S Protease™), the usage rate can go up to 5%. Using it at 1% for 5-15 minutes as a wash-off treatment is a common and effective method for enzyme exfoliation. This type is often designed to be less irritating while still providing significant exfoliation.

When using Protease Enzyme in this manner, especially the standard type or at higher concentrations, it is crucial to pay close attention to your skin's reaction. Start with a shorter application time (e.g., 5 minutes) and gradually increase if your skin tolerates it well. The lack of immediate stinging compared to high-concentration AHAs can be misleading, as the enzymatic action is still potent and can lead to over-exfoliation without the immediate warning signs.

Suitable Product Forms

• Standard Protease Enzyme: Best suited for water-free powder formulations (mask powders, cleansing powders) that are activated by mixing with water immediately before use.
• Stabilized Protease Enzyme (e.g., Bio-S Protease™): Can be incorporated into water-based cosmetic formulas like gels, creams, serums, or liquid peels, provided the pH is within the enzyme's optimal range (pH 4-12 for Bio-S Protease™) and excessive heat is avoided during manufacturing.

In summary, while 0.5% is a suitable concentration, daily use requires caution. 1% can be used for a short-contact treatment similar to an AHA peel, but be mindful of the enzyme's potency and the risk of over-exfoliation, especially with the standard type. Stabilized versions offer more flexibility in formulation.