Vitamin C Gel Essence Formulation (100ml)

Creating a stable essence with L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) can be challenging because it is prone to oxidation when dissolved in water. The suggestion to use a combination with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid, like in the Vitamin C E Ferulic kit, is a good approach as this combination is known to enhance stability and efficacy.

To make a 100ml clear gel essence with 15-20% L-Ascorbic Acid, you will need several key ingredients:

Key Ingredients:

• L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C Powder): You can use Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine), Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Fine), or Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Standard). For a 15% concentration, you will need 15g. For a 20% concentration, you will need 20g. The Ultra-Fine grade dissolves most easily.
• Solvent System: This typically involves purified water and a glycol like Propylene Glycol or Ethoxydiglycol to help dissolve the L-Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid.
• Antioxidants/Stabilizers:
  • Pure-Ferulic Acid™: Helps stabilize Vitamin C and provides antioxidant benefits. Typically used at 0.5-1%.
  • Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol): Another powerful antioxidant that works synergistically with Vitamin C and Ferulic Acid. Typically used at 0.5-1%.
• Gelling Agent: To create the clear gel texture. You need one that is effective at the low pH required for L-Ascorbic Acid stability (pH 2.5-3.5). Suitable options include:
  • Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC): Available in different viscosities like Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) (4500mPa.s), Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) (2800mPa.s), or Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) (2000mPa.s) (Super Clear Gel). Usage rate is typically 0.5-3% depending on desired thickness. HEC requires heating to dissolve properly.
  • Poly-Protect (Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum): A natural option that can create a gel texture. Typically used at 0.5-2%. Avoid heat over 60°C.
• pH Adjuster: An acidic ingredient like Citric Acid solution is essential to lower the pH to the optimal range of 2.5-3.5 for L-Ascorbic Acid stability and skin absorption.
• Preservative: A broad-spectrum preservative effective at low pH is necessary to prevent microbial growth.
• Chelating Agent (Recommended): Ingredients like Disodium EDTA can help by binding metal ions that can degrade L-Ascorbic Acid.

General Mixing Steps:

1. Prepare your solvent system (water and glycols).
2. Carefully dissolve the L-Ascorbic Acid, Ferulic Acid, and Vitamin E in the solvent system. Ferulic Acid may require gentle warming and/or a co-solvent like Ethoxydiglycol to fully dissolve.
3. If using HEC as the gelling agent, heat the water phase to around 70°C and slowly add the HEC while stirring continuously until a gel forms and it is fully dissolved. If using Sclerotium Gum, add it to the water phase and mix without exceeding 60°C.
4. Once the gel base is formed and cooled (if heated), incorporate the dissolved Vitamin C, Ferulic Acid, and Vitamin E mixture.
5. Add the preservative and chelating agent (if using).
6. Crucially, measure the pH of the mixture using a pH meter or reliable pH strips.
7. Slowly add a Citric Acid solution drop by drop, mixing well after each addition, until the pH is in the range of 2.5-3.5.
8. Mix thoroughly to ensure all ingredients are evenly distributed.
9. Package the essence in an opaque, airtight container to protect it from light and air, which can cause oxidation.

The Vitamin C E Ferulic kit is designed to simplify this process by providing pre-measured ingredients and instructions for a stable serum, which could be a good starting point before attempting to create a gel version from individual ingredients.

Remember that formulating with L-Ascorbic Acid requires careful attention to pH, ingredient compatibility, and storage conditions to maintain its effectiveness and stability.