Water-Breaking Sunscreen Formulation Issues and SPF 50

Subject: Water-Breaking Sunscreen Formulation

Regarding your questions about making a water-breaking sunscreen:

1. Ingredient Quantities: The formulas provided in the conversation give percentages, not specific gram amounts. To calculate the quantity in grams or kilograms, you would need to decide on the total batch size you want to make. For example, if you want to make 100 grams, the percentages directly translate to grams (e.g., 10% Silky Serum Base would be 10 grams).

   • The first suggested formula uses: Silky Serum Base 10%, Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™ 3%, Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ 7%, Water the rest (100% - 10% - 3% - 7% = 80%).
   • The staff's suggested formula for SPF 50 PA++++ uses: SPF Protect Ultra II 15%, Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ 5%, LipidSoft (any type) 5%, SiliSolve Plus 1%, Mild Preserved Eco 1%, Water the rest (100% - 15% - 5% - 5% - 1% - 1% = 73%).

2. Formula Review:

   • The initial list of ingredients you provided from another cream (Octyl Mcthoxycinnamate, Vitamin E acetate, Microzized Ti02, etc.) is a list of active/key ingredients but not a complete formula with percentages or instructions. It's difficult to comment on its viability as a "water-breaking" sunscreen without a full formulation.
   • The first suggested formula (Silky Serum Base + TiO2 + ZnO + water) is a simplified approach using a specific base designed for this texture. This seems like a reasonable starting point for a water-breaking sunscreen, as suggested by the forum user.
   • The staff's alternative formula provides a different approach specifically aimed at achieving SPF 50 PA++++ using different sunscreens and emulsifiers.

3. Adjusting for SPF 50 PA++++: The staff has already provided a recommended formula for achieving SPF 50 PA++++. They noted that they do not have test data for the first suggested formula (using Silky Serum Base, Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™, and Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™) at that high SPF level. Therefore, the staff's suggested formula is the recommended path for SPF 50 PA++++:

   • SPF Protect Ultra II: 15%
   • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™: 5%
   • LipidSoft (any type): 5%
   • SiliSolve Plus: 1%
   • Mild Preserved Eco: 1%
   • Water: the rest (73%)
   • Mixing instructions are provided by the staff: Mix 1+2+3+4 (oil phase), blend well. While blending, slowly add 6 (water) to the oil phase little by little until all water is incorporated. Then add 5 (preservative) and blend until uniform.

4. Issue with Phenoxyethanol: You reported that adding Phenoxyethanol preservative to the first suggested formula (Silky Serum Base + TiO2 + ZnO + water) caused it to turn watery. It is possible that certain preservatives or their concentration can affect the stability and texture of complex emulsion systems like water-breaking formulations. The staff has acknowledged this issue and requested your order number for the Phenoxyethanol to investigate further. This suggests they are looking into a potential interaction or issue specific to that preservative product in this type of base. You should follow up with the staff regarding the specific Phenoxyethanol product you used.

In summary, you have two potential formulas discussed: a simpler one using Silky Serum Base and physical sunscreens, and a staff-recommended one for SPF 50 PA++++ using SPF Protect Ultra II and Zinc Oxide. The issue with Phenoxyethanol in the first formula is being investigated by the staff.