Water Essence Formulation for Brightening: Texture and Preservation

Asked by: markpodsawat On: August 11, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have the following formula for a water essence focused on brightening:

Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland) 5%
Activated Resorcinol™ 1%
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
VersaMoist™ (PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether) 2%
Xanthan Gum (clear gel, smooth texture) 0.1-0.2%
น้ำกลั่น 88%

I want the product to focus on brightening and be dispensable from a pump bottle. Should I use Xanthan Gum or a polymer as the gelling agent? Also, should I add a preservative?

Answer

Subject: Feedback on Water Essence Formulation

Your proposed water essence formulation focuses on brightening with a good combination of active ingredients.

  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) 5%: This is an effective concentration for brightening, improving skin barrier, and other benefits.
  • Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol) 1%: This is a potent brightening agent, and 1% is at the higher end of typical usage, which should provide strong results.
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%: A good concentration, works well with Niacinamide for brightening and hydration.
  • VersaMoist™ (PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether) 2%: A suitable humectant for hydration in a water-based product.
  • Xanthan Gum 0.1-0.2%: This concentration is appropriate for creating a light, slightly viscous texture typical of a water essence. Using the "clear gel, smooth texture" type is a good choice.

Regarding your questions:

  1. Gelling Agent (Xanthan Gum vs. Polymer): Xanthan Gum at 0.1-0.2% should provide enough viscosity for a water essence and should be pumpable from a suitable bottle/pump. While polymers can offer different textures, Xanthan Gum is a straightforward choice for this type of product and concentration. Sticking with Xanthan Gum at this level is appropriate for achieving a pumpable water essence consistency.
  2. Preservative: Yes, adding a suitable preservative system is absolutely essential for this formulation. Since it is a water-based product, it is highly susceptible to microbial growth (bacteria, mold, yeast). A preservative will protect the product from contamination, ensuring its safety and shelf life. You must include a broad-spectrum preservative system at the recommended usage rate.

Overall, the active ingredient combination is strong for brightening. Just ensure you include a proper preservative system.