Water Essence Formula Review

Your proposed formula for a water essence targeting brightening, hydration, and anti-pollution is well-designed and utilizes effective ingredients for these purposes.

• Plankton Artemia Extract: This ingredient is excellent for protecting the skin from environmental stressors and has anti-pollution benefits.
• Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): At 5%, this is a potent concentration for brightening, improving skin barrier function, reducing redness, and controlling oiliness. The Safe-B3™ type is noted for its high purity, reducing the risk of flushing.
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): This works synergistically with Niacinamide to enhance skin brightening and also helps stimulate the skin's natural production of Hyaluronic Acid for added moisture.
• Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera): Included at 30%, this ingredient is well-known for its ability to revitalize, hydrate, improve texture, and promote overall skin health.
• Rose Water (Rosa Damascena): This serves as a soothing and hydrating base for the essence.

Recommended Additions

While your formula contains excellent active ingredients, it is crucial to include a preservative. Water-based formulas, especially those containing botanical extracts like Plankton Artemia Extract and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, are prone to microbial contamination (bacteria, mold, yeast). A preservative system is essential to ensure the safety and longevity of your product.

Based on available options, consider adding one of the following broad-spectrum preservatives:

• Global Guard™ 221: A natural, water-soluble preservative effective in a pH range of 2-7. Recommended usage rate is 0.5-1.1%.
• Mild Preserved™ COS: A broad-spectrum, odorless, water-soluble preservative effective in a wide pH range of 2-8. Recommended usage rate is 0.75-1.5%.
• NaturePreserve™ Ultra: A natural preservative blend (Gluconolactone & Sodium Benzoate) effective in a pH range of 3-6. Recommended usage rate is 0.75-2.0% (1.25% recommended for most products). Note that this is acidic and may lower the formula's pH.

Choose a preservative that is compatible with the desired pH range of your final product and follow the supplier's recommended usage rate. Always perform a challenge test to confirm efficacy.

To further boost the hydration aspect of your water essence, you could also consider adding a dedicated humectant. While your current ingredients provide some hydration, a humectant can significantly enhance moisture retention. Some options include:

• MOIST24: A highly effective humectant that provides long-lasting hydration and can improve formula texture. Recommended usage rate is 1-10% (1-5% for general skincare).
• Advanced Moisture Complex: A blend of moisturizing ingredients that provides immediate and 24-hour hydration. Recommended usage rate is 3-10%.
• Sorbitol Solution 70%: A classic humectant.
• MOIST72™: Provides high, continuous, and long-lasting moisturizing effects. Recommended usage rate is 2-5%.

Adding a humectant at a suitable percentage (e.g., 1-5%) can improve the feel and moisturizing performance of your essence.

Remember to mix water-soluble ingredients in the water phase. Ingredients like Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate and MOIST72™ should be added in the final step below 40°C. Plankton Artemia Extract should also be mixed in water, avoiding heat above 40°C, with a recommended pH of 4-6.5. Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™ can be mixed in the water phase with heat resistance but avoid prolonged heating, with optimal pH ranges of 3-8 and 3-7 respectively. Rose Water can be used at 1-100%. Preservatives like Global Guard™ 221 and Mild Preserved™ COS can be mixed in any step below 45°C within their pH ranges. NaturePreserve™ Ultra is mixed in the water phase with heat resistance within its pH range of 3-6.

By adding a suitable preservative and potentially a humectant, your water essence formula will be more stable, safe, and effective for achieving bright, hydrated skin and protection against pollution.