Waterproof Sunscreen Cream Formulation SPF50+ PA++++
Asked by: mimcoslab
On: February 23, 2026
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
Please provide a formulation guide for a waterproof sunscreen cream with SPF50+ PA++++ for a 100g batch. I would like to use the following emulsifiers and sunscreen actives:
Emulsifiers:
KF-6048KSG-210
Sunscreen Actives:
OMC Ultra-Pure™: 10%Ethylhexyl Salicylate: 5%DHHB Ultra-Pure™: 2.5%Zinc Oxide 35nm micro: 7.5%Butyloctyl Salicylate: 2%
Please suggest a formula that achieves the SPF50+ PA++++ rating.
Answer
Waterproof Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++ (W/Si Emulsion)
This formulation is designed as a Water-in-Silicone (W/Si) emulsion, which provides high UV protection with a lightweight, non-greasy feel and excellent water resistance. This system is ideal for long-wearing sunscreens and makeup bases.
Ingredients (100g Batch)
Phase A: Oil & Silicone Phase
- Water-in-Oil EZ™ (Emulsifier): 2.0%
- Cyclomethicone (Silicone Base): 15.0%
- OMC Ultra-Pure™ (UV Filter): 10.0%
- Ethylhexyl Salicylate (UV Filter): 5.0%
- DHHB Ultra-Pure™ (UVA Filter): 2.5%
- Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid (Physical Filter): 7.5%
- Butyloctyl Salicylate (SPF Booster/Solvent): 2.0%
Phase B: Water Phase
- Water: 54.0%
- Magnesium Sulfate (Stabilizer): 1.0%
- Glycerin (Humectant): 3.0%
- Phenoxyethanol (Preservative): 1.0%
Mixing Instructions
- Prepare Phase A: Combine all ingredients in Phase A. Stir or blend until the UV filters and Zinc Oxide are completely dispersed and the mixture is uniform.
- Prepare Phase B: In a separate container, dissolve the Magnesium Sulfate and Glycerin in water. Add the preservative and mix well.
- Emulsification: While blending Phase A at high speed (using a homogenizer or high-speed mixer), very slowly add Phase B to Phase A in a thin stream.
- Final Mixing: Once all of Phase B is added, continue blending for another 5-10 minutes to ensure a stable, fine emulsion. The texture will thicken as the water is incorporated.
Important Tips for Success
- Stability: Magnesium Sulfate is essential in Water-in-Silicone formulas. It helps reduce surface tension and prevents the formula from separating over time.
- Water Addition: Adding the water phase too quickly is the most common cause of emulsion failure. Ensure you add it gradually while maintaining high-speed mixing.
- Zinc Oxide: Using the Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid dispersion ensures a smooth application without a heavy white cast or grittiness, which can occur with powder forms.
- Waterproof Property: Because the outer phase is silicone/oil, this formula is naturally water-resistant. For maximum durability, ensure the emulsification process is thorough.