Waterproof Sunscreen Cream Formulation SPF50+ PA++++

Asked by: mimcoslab On: February 23, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Please provide a formulation guide for a waterproof sunscreen cream with SPF50+ PA++++ for a 100g batch. I would like to use the following emulsifiers and sunscreen actives:

Emulsifiers:

  • KF-6048
  • KSG-210

Sunscreen Actives:

  • OMC Ultra-Pure™: 10%
  • Ethylhexyl Salicylate: 5%
  • DHHB Ultra-Pure™: 2.5%
  • Zinc Oxide 35nm micro: 7.5%
  • Butyloctyl Salicylate: 2%

Please suggest a formula that achieves the SPF50+ PA++++ rating.

Answer

Waterproof Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++ (W/Si Emulsion)

This formulation is designed as a Water-in-Silicone (W/Si) emulsion, which provides high UV protection with a lightweight, non-greasy feel and excellent water resistance. This system is ideal for long-wearing sunscreens and makeup bases.

Ingredients (100g Batch)

Phase A: Oil & Silicone Phase

  • Water-in-Oil EZ™ (Emulsifier): 2.0%
  • Cyclomethicone (Silicone Base): 15.0%
  • OMC Ultra-Pure™ (UV Filter): 10.0%
  • Ethylhexyl Salicylate (UV Filter): 5.0%
  • DHHB Ultra-Pure™ (UVA Filter): 2.5%
  • Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid (Physical Filter): 7.5%
  • Butyloctyl Salicylate (SPF Booster/Solvent): 2.0%

Phase B: Water Phase

  • Water: 54.0%
  • Magnesium Sulfate (Stabilizer): 1.0%
  • Glycerin (Humectant): 3.0%
  • Phenoxyethanol (Preservative): 1.0%

Mixing Instructions

  1. Prepare Phase A: Combine all ingredients in Phase A. Stir or blend until the UV filters and Zinc Oxide are completely dispersed and the mixture is uniform.
  2. Prepare Phase B: In a separate container, dissolve the Magnesium Sulfate and Glycerin in water. Add the preservative and mix well.
  3. Emulsification: While blending Phase A at high speed (using a homogenizer or high-speed mixer), very slowly add Phase B to Phase A in a thin stream.
  4. Final Mixing: Once all of Phase B is added, continue blending for another 5-10 minutes to ensure a stable, fine emulsion. The texture will thicken as the water is incorporated.

Important Tips for Success

  • Stability: Magnesium Sulfate is essential in Water-in-Silicone formulas. It helps reduce surface tension and prevents the formula from separating over time.
  • Water Addition: Adding the water phase too quickly is the most common cause of emulsion failure. Ensure you add it gradually while maintaining high-speed mixing.
  • Zinc Oxide: Using the Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid dispersion ensures a smooth application without a heavy white cast or grittiness, which can occur with powder forms.
  • Waterproof Property: Because the outer phase is silicone/oil, this formula is naturally water-resistant. For maximum durability, ensure the emulsification process is thorough.