Waterproof, Sweatproof, Sun-Protecting CC Cream Formulation

Asked by: paree09510182 On: October 19, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

How can I formulate a CC cream that is waterproof, sweatproof, provides sun protection, offers light coverage, evens skin tone, helps conceal wrinkles, and is non-comedogenic? I am looking for guidance on creating a cream base and incorporating foundation/mineral makeup components, such as Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, to achieve these properties, particularly focusing on the waterproof aspect using a Water-in-Oil emulsion system with emulsifiers like Water-Capsule or Water-in-Oil EZ.

Answer

Waterproof, Sweatproof, Sun-Protecting CC Cream Formulation

To create a CC cream formula that is waterproof, sweatproof, provides sun protection, light coverage, evens skin tone, conceals wrinkles, and is non-comedogenic, you can follow the approach of making a cream base and incorporating foundation/mineral makeup components. The key to achieving waterproof and sweatproof properties is using a Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsion system.

Key Components:

  1. Water-in-Oil Emulsifier: This is crucial for creating a waterproof and long-lasting base. Recommended options include:

    • Water-Capsule™: Easy to use, doesn't require heat, and can create a W/O cream with a low oil percentage (5-20%), resulting in a less sticky feel compared to traditional W/O emulsions. It also disperses pigments well.
    • Water-in-Oil EZ™: Another effective W/O emulsifier that can handle higher oil/silicone percentages (up to 35%) and is suitable for formulas containing electrolytes. It provides a soft, smooth texture and coats the skin well.
  2. Sun Protection Agents (Physical Sunscreens): To provide sun protection and contribute to coverage without clogging pores, physical sunscreens are recommended. These include Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide.

    • Titanium Dioxide: Provides protection against UVA (short-wave) and UVB. For makeup formulas, consider types like Titanium Dioxide FoundationPro™, which is specifically developed for liquid foundation/BB/CC formulas, offering a good balance of softness, adhesion, durability, and waterproof ability, while being easy to spread. Other coated types like Titanium Dioxide 300nm WaterProof™ are also suitable for waterproof makeup.
    • Zinc Oxide: Provides good protection against UVA (long-wave). Using it alongside Titanium Dioxide ensures broad-spectrum protection. Options like Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ or Zinc Oxide (40nm, Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated) are micronized or nano-sized and coated for better dispersion in oil/silicone phases and reduced whiteness on the skin, making them suitable for makeup.
  3. Pigments for Coverage and Color Adjustment: To provide coverage and match skin tone, use mineral makeup pigments, primarily Iron Oxides.

  4. Texture Enhancers: Ingredients like Trisiloxane (a lightweight, fast-evaporating silicone) can be added to improve the spreadability and feel of the CC cream, making it lighter on the skin.

  5. Thickener (for Water Phase): If using Water-in-Oil EZ™ and needing to adjust the thickness of the water phase before emulsification, a water-soluble thickener like Sepimax Zen can be used.

Formulation Tips:

  • When using W/O emulsifiers like Water-in-Oil EZ™, it is often recommended to add the water phase gradually to the oil phase while stirring or blending continuously.
  • Ensure pigments and physical sunscreens are well dispersed in the oil or silicone phase before combining with the water phase.
  • Adjust the ratio of Titanium Dioxide and Iron Oxides to achieve the desired level of coverage and skin tone match.
  • The W/O emulsion system itself, combined with physical sunscreens, inherently contributes to the non-comedogenic property as the oil phase helps coat the skin rather than penetrating deeply, and physical sunscreens sit on the skin surface.

By combining a W/O emulsion base with appropriate physical sunscreens and pigments, you can create a waterproof, sweatproof, and sun-protective CC cream that offers light coverage, helps conceal minor imperfections like wrinkles, and feels light and non-clogging on the skin.