Waterproof, Sweatproof, Sun-Protecting CC Cream Formulation

Asked by: paree09510182 On: October 19, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I formulate a CC cream that is waterproof, sweatproof, provides sun protection, offers light coverage, evens skin tone, helps conceal wrinkles, and is non-comedogenic? I am looking for guidance on creating a cream base and incorporating foundation/mineral makeup components, such as Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, to achieve these properties, particularly focusing on the waterproof aspect using a Water-in-Oil emulsion system with emulsifiers like Water-Capsule or Water-in-Oil EZ.

Answer

Waterproof, Sweatproof, Sun-Protecting CC Cream Formulation

To create a CC cream formula that is waterproof, sweatproof, provides sun protection, light coverage, evens skin tone, conceals wrinkles, and is non-comedogenic, you can follow the approach of making a cream base and incorporating foundation/mineral makeup components. The key to achieving waterproof and sweatproof properties is using a Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsion system.

Key Components:

  1. Water-in-Oil Emulsifier: This is crucial for creating a waterproof and long-lasting base. Recommended options include:

    • Water-Capsule™: Easy to use, doesn't require heat, and can create a W/O cream with a low oil percentage (5-20%), resulting in a less sticky feel compared to traditional W/O emulsions. It also disperses pigments well.
    • Water-in-Oil EZ™: Another effective W/O emulsifier that can handle higher oil/silicone percentages (up to 35%) and is suitable for formulas containing electrolytes. It provides a soft, smooth texture and coats the skin well.
  2. Sun Protection Agents (Physical Sunscreens): To provide sun protection and contribute to coverage without clogging pores, physical sunscreens are recommended. These include Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide.

    • Titanium Dioxide: Provides protection against UVA (short-wave) and UVB. For makeup formulas, consider types like Titanium Dioxide FoundationPro™, which is specifically developed for liquid foundation/BB/CC formulas, offering a good balance of softness, adhesion, durability, and waterproof ability, while being easy to spread. Other coated types like Titanium Dioxide 300nm WaterProof™ are also suitable for waterproof makeup.
    • Zinc Oxide: Provides good protection against UVA (long-wave). Using it alongside Titanium Dioxide ensures broad-spectrum protection. Options like Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ or Zinc Oxide (40nm, Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated) are micronized or nano-sized and coated for better dispersion in oil/silicone phases and reduced whiteness on the skin, making them suitable for makeup.
  3. Pigments for Coverage and Color Adjustment: To provide coverage and match skin tone, use mineral makeup pigments, primarily Iron Oxides.

    • Iron Oxides: Available in Red, Yellow, and Black. By mixing these with Titanium Dioxide (which provides whiteness and coverage), you can achieve various skin tones. Using coated versions like Iron Oxides Red (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated), Iron Oxides Yellow (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated), and Iron Oxides Black (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated) helps them disperse better in the oil phase of the W/O emulsion, leading to smoother application and even color.
  4. Texture Enhancers: Ingredients like Trisiloxane (a lightweight, fast-evaporating silicone) can be added to improve the spreadability and feel of the CC cream, making it lighter on the skin.

  5. Thickener (for Water Phase): If using Water-in-Oil EZ™ and needing to adjust the thickness of the water phase before emulsification, a water-soluble thickener like Sepimax Zen can be used.

Formulation Tips:

  • When using W/O emulsifiers like Water-in-Oil EZ™, it is often recommended to add the water phase gradually to the oil phase while stirring or blending continuously.
  • Ensure pigments and physical sunscreens are well dispersed in the oil or silicone phase before combining with the water phase.
  • Adjust the ratio of Titanium Dioxide and Iron Oxides to achieve the desired level of coverage and skin tone match.
  • The W/O emulsion system itself, combined with physical sunscreens, inherently contributes to the non-comedogenic property as the oil phase helps coat the skin rather than penetrating deeply, and physical sunscreens sit on the skin surface.

By combining a W/O emulsion base with appropriate physical sunscreens and pigments, you can create a waterproof, sweatproof, and sun-protective CC cream that offers light coverage, helps conceal minor imperfections like wrinkles, and feels light and non-clogging on the skin.