Evaluation of Your Whitening and Melasma Formula

Here is an evaluation of the cosmetic formula you provided, based on a Water Sleeping Mask Base with added active ingredients for whitening and reducing melasma:

1. Irritation

The formula contains several ingredients known for their soothing and anti-irritant properties, such as Calcium Pantothenate, Wild Yam Extract, and Licorice Extract. Ingredients like Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine), and Alpha Arbutin are generally considered to have low irritation potential at the concentrations used. TXC™ (Cetyl Tranexamate HCl) at 0.5% is within the recommended usage range, but higher concentrations can cause irritation. Overall, the formula is unlikely to be highly irritating for most users, but individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test.

2. Color and Color Change

The added ingredients are mostly white to light yellow powders or colorless/light yellow liquids. The final color will depend on the base mask. However, Alpha Arbutin, when used without a stabilizer like ActiveProtec™, can cause the formula to discolor (turn yellow or brown) over time, especially with exposure to light and air. Your formula does not mention such a stabilizer.

3. Scent

MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine) is described as having a sweet smell. Other ingredients do not have strong characteristic odors mentioned in their descriptions. The final scent will be a combination of the base, the sweet smell from MSH White™, and any other ingredients. To minimize scent, a fragrance can be added.

4. Texture/Viscosity

Adding various powder and liquid ingredients to the base will likely alter its original viscosity and texture. The extent of this change depends heavily on the specific composition of the Water Sleeping Mask Base and how the new ingredients are incorporated. It is unlikely that the final texture will be identical to the original base.

5. Carrier for Vitamin B3

Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) is water-soluble and does not require a carrier like Ethoxyglycol to be dissolved in a water-based formula. It can be mixed directly into the water phase of your base. If you need additional solvents or penetration enhancers, common options include Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, or Propanediol, used at appropriate concentrations according to formulation needs and regulations.

6. Efficacy for Whitening and Melasma

Yes, this formula contains a potent combination of well-regarded skin brightening and anti-hyperpigmentation ingredients, including Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine), TXC™ (Cetyl Tranexamate HCl), Alpha Arbutin, MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine), and Licorice Extract. These ingredients work through multiple pathways to reduce melanin production and improve skin tone, making the formula expected to be effective for achieving brighter skin and reducing the appearance of dark spots and melasma.

7. Preservatives

A suitable broad-spectrum preservative system is essential for any water-based cosmetic product to prevent microbial growth and ensure safety and shelf life. The choice and concentration of preservative depend on the specific base composition, pH, and desired shelf life, as well as regulatory requirements. It is recommended to select a preservative system appropriate for your complete formula.

8. Ingredient Order (INCI List)

The ingredients in the INCI list are ordered by descending concentration. Assuming Water is the primary ingredient in the base, the order would start with Water and other base ingredients (in descending order of their concentration within the base). The added ingredients would then follow: Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) (2%), GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) (1%). Ingredients at 1% or less can be listed in any order after those at higher concentrations: TXC™ (Cetyl Tranexamate HCl) (0.5%), Alpha Arbutin (0.5%), Calcium Pantothenate (0.3%), MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine) (0.2%), Wild Yam Extract (Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract) (0.2%), Licorice Extract (Glabridin) (0.1%).

9. Moisturization

Yes, the formula is expected to provide significant moisturization. The Water Sleeping Mask Base itself is designed for hydration. Additionally, Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) improves the skin barrier, GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) boosts hyaluronic acid, Calcium Pantothenate adds moisture, and Wild Yam Extract helps retain moisture. This combination contributes to well-hydrated skin.