Achieving Clarity in Clear Gel Mascara Formulation

Asked by: bantita13 On: July 26, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need advice on making a clear gel mascara for brows and lashes transparent. What should I add to the formula?

I made a batch, and it turned out cloudy, like rice water.

Here is the approximate formula:

  • DI Water: 70 %
  • Polyester Film: 26%
  • AnyGel™: 1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco: 1%
  • Pro Vitamin B5: 1%
  • Aloe Vera Extract: 1%

Please advise.

Answer

Based on your formula and the information gathered, the cloudiness in your clear gel mascara is most likely due to the ingredients used, particularly the film-forming polymer and potentially the extract.

Here's a breakdown and recommendations:

  • Film-Forming Polymer (Polyester Film at 26%): Film formers are essential for mascara to provide hold and structure, but not all film formers create a perfectly clear film or solution, especially at high concentrations. The specific "Polyester Film" you are using might be inherently cloudy or become turbid when dispersed in water at 26%. To achieve clarity, you would need to replace this with a film-forming polymer specifically designed for high transparency in aqueous systems. While some film formers like Polyacrylate-21 are used in mascara, the description indicates it's a turbid liquid, which wouldn't help with clarity. A product like ClearFlexPeel Film™, described as having a clear texture, is an example of a film former designed for transparency, although its typical usage rate might differ significantly from what's needed in a mascara gel. You would need to source a film former known to produce clear gels or solutions suitable for mascara applications at your desired concentration.

  • Aloe Vera Extract (1%): Natural extracts, even if described as "light-colored" or "non-yellowing" like the Aloe Vera Extract (FullAssay™) you used, can still introduce some level of natural color or slight turbidity depending on the batch and the other ingredients in the formula. While 1% is a low percentage, it could contribute to the overall cloudiness. For maximum clarity, consider using a purified, truly colorless extract like Portulaca Extract (Purified Colorless Liquid) or omitting the extract entirely if its function isn't critical for a clear product.

  • AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum at 1%): AnyGel™ is a type of Xanthan Gum. While Xanthan Gum can form clear gels, some grades are clearer than others. Using a Xanthan Gum specifically marketed as a "clear gel type" could help ensure your gelling agent is not contributing to the turbidity, although it is less likely to be the primary cause compared to the film former at 26%.

To make your gel mascara clear, you should focus on replacing the ingredients causing the turbidity:

  1. Replace the Polyester Film: Find a film-forming polymer that is water-soluble and specifically designed to create clear, transparent films or gels suitable for mascara/lash applications. This is the most crucial step given the high percentage used.
  2. Consider the Aloe Vera Extract: Replace it with a colorless alternative or remove it if absolute clarity is the goal.
  3. Review the Gelling Agent: Ensure the Xanthan Gum used is a clear gel type.

Adding other ingredients to your current cloudy mixture is unlikely to make it clear. The cloudiness is a physical property caused by the ingredients themselves or their interaction.