Achieving Non-Sticky, Glass Skin Texture in High-Active Hyperpigmentation Serum
Question
I am currently formulating a water-based serum to treat hyperpigmentation, but I am having trouble achieving the desired texture and feel. I would like the finished product to be similar to Korean serums, providing a glowing and hydrating "glass skin" effect without leaving a sticky, greasy, or heavy feeling.
The current formulation components are:
- Water: 80.9%
- Allantoin: 0.2%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.1%
- Propanediol 1,3: 2%
- Glycerin: 3%
- Hyaluronic Acid (Low Molecule): 0.2%
- Hyaluronic Acid (High Molecule): 0.1%
- Salagum AX: 0.5%
- Extreme-B3™: 5%
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 4%
- Alpha Arbutin: 2%
- N-Acetyl Glucosamine: 1%
- Preservative: 1%
Can you help me choose the right thickener and suggest any other ingredients I can add to achieve this non-sticky, light texture suitable for a high-active serum?
Answer
Your current formula is excellent in terms of active ingredients for hyperpigmentation. However, the use of a natural gum thickener like Salagum AX often contributes to the sticky or heavy feeling you are experiencing, especially when combined with humectants like Glycerin and Propanediol.
To achieve the desired "glass skin" effect—a non-sticky, hydrating, and glowing finish—you need to switch to a texturizer known for a silky, non-tacky feel.
1. Change the Primary Thickener
Replace Salagum AX with a synthetic polymer that offers a superior skin feel and excellent stability with your high-active, high-electrolyte formula (Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, etc.).
- Recommendation: SepGEL 305 (ID 2056). This polymer thickens instantly, is highly stable with acids and salts, and is specifically known for creating a smooth, non-sticky, and non-greasy texture.
- Usage Rate: Start with 0.5% to 1.5% depending on the viscosity you desire.
2. Add a Specialized Texturizer for "Glass Skin" Glow
To specifically counteract any residual stickiness and enhance the soft, watery, glowing feel, add a specialized texturizer.
- Recommendation: WaterLube™ Soft (ID 7469). This ingredient was designed to eliminate the sticky feeling in aqueous gels and provides a soft, watery touch, ideal for the Korean serum texture you seek.
- Usage Rate: Use at 1.0% to 3.0%.
Example Formula Adjustment
By replacing Salagum AX (0.5%) with SepGEL 305 (1.0%) and adding WaterLube™ Soft (2.0%), you will significantly improve the texture while maintaining your high active load. You would need to reduce the water content by 2.5% to balance the formula.
| Ingredient | Original % | Suggested % | Function/Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water | 80.9% | 77.9% | Balance |
| Salagum AX | 0.5% | 0.0% | Removed |
| SepGEL 305 (ID 2056) | 0.0% | 1.0% | Primary Thickener (Silky, non-sticky) |
| WaterLube™ Soft (ID 7469) | 0.0% | 2.0% | Texturizer (Eliminates stickiness, adds watery feel) |
| Other Ingredients | 18.6% | 18.6% | (Actives, Humectants, etc.) |
| Total | 100.0% | 100.0% |
Other Texture Tips
- Glycerin: Your 3% usage is fine for hydration, but if stickiness persists even after changing the thickener, consider reducing it to 1-2% and increasing the less-sticky Propanediol 1,3 to maintain humectancy.
- Hyaluronic Acid: Ensure your high molecular weight HA is fully hydrated before mixing with other ingredients to prevent a stringy texture.
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