Acne & Oil Control Gel Formulation: Compatibility, pH, and Ingredient Substitution

ถามโดย: momoko_hii เมื่อ: September 21, 2013 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am developing a gel formulation for acne, oil control, and steroid-induced acne. I have drafted a formula with the following ingredients:

  • Azelaic acid (Liquid Azelaic™) 10%
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 4%
  • Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble) 0.5%
  • L-Carnitine (Carnitine) 3%
  • Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane) 3%
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) 4%
  • Zinc PCA 1%
  • Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture) 0.7-1%
  • Di-water adjust to 100%
  • Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure) 0.5%

I have the following questions regarding this formula:

  1. Are Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) and Zinc PCA compatible in the same formulation? What are the potential issues?
  2. What is the optimal pH range for this type of gel formulation, considering the ingredients used? How should the pH be measured and adjusted?
  3. What are the implications of substituting GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) with Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) in terms of efficacy and formulation properties?
  4. Could you provide guidance or suggestions for this formulation, especially regarding the compatibility issue and achieving the desired gel texture?

คำตอบ

Formulation Analysis and Recommendations\n\nThank you for providing your gel formulation for acne, oil control, and steroid-induced acne. Let\'s analyze the ingredients and address your questions.\n\n## Ingredient Compatibility\n\As noted by cosmeceutical7, Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) and Zinc PCA are generally not compatible in the same formulation. It is recommended to choose only one of these ingredients for your formula.\n\n## Effectiveness of Ingredients\n\nThe ingredients you have chosen are beneficial for addressing acne, oiliness, and inflammation:\n\n* Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): Effective for reducing oiliness, controlling sebum production, reducing acne, and brightening the skin. It is used at a concentration of 5-10% for these benefits.\n* Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Helps reduce oiliness (sebum excretion), is suitable for acne-prone skin, and also offers benefits for reducing redness and strengthening the skin barrier. A concentration of 4% is within the effective range.\n* Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble): Known for its anti-inflammatory properties, helping to reduce redness and irritation associated with acne. 0.5% is within the recommended range.\n* L-Carnitine (Carnitine): Can help reduce oiliness by controlling sebum production and can accelerate skin cell turnover gently. 3% is a recommended concentration.\n* Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane): Also contributes to oil control by reducing the oil production of the sebaceous glands. 3% is recommended for this purpose.\n* GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): Can help reduce acne breakouts and offers gentle exfoliation and hydration. It works well in combination with Niacinamide.\n* Zinc PCA: Effective for reducing oiliness, accelerating wound healing (like acne scars), and stimulating collagen. 1% is within the effective range for oily skin.\n* Xanthan Gum: Acts as a thickener to create the gel texture. 1% is a common usage rate, but adjusting between 0.7% and 1% (or slightly more) can help achieve the desired viscosity.\n* Phenoxyethanol: A common preservative to protect the formula from microbial growth.\n\nOverall, the combination of ingredients (excluding the Azelaic Acid/Zinc PCA incompatibility) targets multiple aspects of acne and oily skin.\n\n## pH Considerations\n\nAs discussed, the pH of the formula is important. L-Carnitine can influence the pH, and while your formula might naturally fall into an acceptable range (around 4.5 as estimated), it\'s always best to measure the final pH of your formulation. The optimal pH range for most of these ingredients is between 4-7. If the pH is outside this range, especially if it\'s too low (below 4) or too high (above 7 for L-Carnitine and Zinc PCA solubility), you may need to adjust it using a suitable pH adjuster.\n\nRegarding the mixing order and pH, generally, water-soluble ingredients are dissolved in the water phase. pH adjustment is typically done at the end after all ingredients are incorporated, as adding ingredients can change the pH. However, some ingredients like L-Carnitine have specific pH requirements during mixing or storage, so it\'s good practice to be mindful of pH throughout the process and make final adjustments as needed.\n\n## Substituting N-Acetyl Glucosamine with Calendula Extract\n\nSubstituting N-Acetyl Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) with Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) would change the benefits of your formula:\n\n* N-Acetyl Glucosamine (GlucoBright™): Provides benefits related to gentle exfoliation, reducing acne breakouts, whitening, reducing dark spots, and boosting hyaluronic acid production.\n* Calendula Extract (Water Soluble): Offers strong anti-inflammatory properties, helps reduce redness and irritation, aids in wound healing, moisturizes, and strengthens the skin barrier.\n\nReplacing N-Acetyl Glucosamine with Calendula Extract means you would lose the gentle exfoliating and potential whitening/dark spot reduction benefits of N-Acetyl Glucosamine but gain enhanced anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties from Calendula. Both are water-soluble and have similar pH ranges (NAG pH 6-7, Calendula pH 5.5-6.5), so this substitution is unlikely to cause a significant pH change or incompatibility with other ingredients (except for the Azelaic Acid/Zinc PCA issue which needs to be resolved separately).\n\n## Recommended Formula Adjustments\n\nGiven the incompatibility of Azelaic Acid and Zinc PCA, you should choose one. Here are two options based on your original formula:\n\nOption 1: Formula with Azelaic Acid (without Zinc PCA)\n\n* Azelaic acid (Liquid Azelaic™) 10%\n* Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 4%\n* Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble) 0.5%\n* L-Carnitine (Carnitine) 3%\n* Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane) 3%\n* GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) 4% (or substitute with Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) 5%)\n* Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture) 0.7-1%\n* Di-water adjust to 100%\n* Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure) 0.5%\n\nOption 2: Formula with Zinc PCA (without Azelaic Acid)\n\n* Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 4%\n* Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble) 0.5%\n* L-Carnitine (Carnitine) 3%\n* Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane) 3%\n* GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) 4% (or substitute with Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) 5%)\n* Zinc PCA 1%\n* Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture) 0.7-1%\n* Di-water adjust to 100%\n* Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure) 0.5%\n\nBoth options can be effective for acne and oil control. The choice depends on whether you prioritize the specific benefits of Azelaic Acid (like brightening) or Zinc PCA (like enhanced wound healing and collagen stimulation).\n\nRemember to measure and adjust the final pH to be within the 4-7 range for optimal stability and skin compatibility. Adjust the Xanthan Gum percentage to achieve your desired gel consistency.\n\nFor steroid-induced acne, as mentioned previously, time is the primary factor for recovery. These formulations can help support skin health and manage symptoms like oiliness and inflammation during the recovery period, but they are not a direct treatment for the steroid withdrawal itself.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
เครื่องสำอาง
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane)
Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane)
เครื่องสำอาง
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
เครื่องสำอาง
Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™, e.q. Azeloglicina)
Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™, e.q. Azeloglicina)
เครื่องสำอาง
Zinc PCA
Zinc PCA
เครื่องสำอาง