Acne Serum Formulation and Ingredient Recommendations

Acne Serum Formulation Analysis & Recommendations

Your current formula is a good starting point for a lightweight, soothing serum. However, to effectively target acne, some adjustments to the active ingredient percentages and specific ingredient choices are recommended.

1. Recommended Ingredients from MySkinRecipes

To ensure the best results and ease of mixing, here are the specific products from our catalog:

• Humectants:
  • Glycerin (99.5% USP): Use at 3.0% as planned.
  • Propanediol: Use at 2.0%. It helps with absorption and reduces stickiness.
• Active Ingredients:
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): We recommend increasing this to 5.0% for better oil control and anti-inflammatory effects.
  • Zinc PCA: Keep at 0.3% - 1.0%. It is excellent for reducing sebum.
  • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid): Since Salicylic Acid is difficult to dissolve in water, we recommend using a liquid encapsulated version. To reach a standard 2% BHA level, you would typically use about 5-10% of the liquid version (depending on the specific concentration of the product).
  • Green Tea Extract (Liquid): Use at 0.5% - 1.0% for antioxidant benefits.
  • Allantoin: Keep at 0.2% for soothing.
• Base & Texture:
  • Carbopol 940 (Carbomer): Use at 0.25% to create a clear gel texture.
  • Triethanolamine (TEA): Use to neutralize the Carbomer (replaces AMP-95). Add drop by drop until the gel thickens and reaches pH 5.5-6.0.
  • Coco Wash™ (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate): Use at 1.0% to help solubilize the Moringa Oil and Fragrance.
• Preservation & Stability:
  • Phenoxyethanol SA: A reliable broad-spectrum preservative. Use at 1.0%.
  • Disodium EDTA: Use at 0.1% to help stabilize the formula.

2. Suggested Formula Adjustments

• Salicylic Acid: 0.2% is quite low for active acne treatment. For a serum, 1.0% - 2.0% is standard. Using an encapsulated version will prevent irritation and make formulation easier.
• Niacinamide: Increasing to 5% provides more significant results for acne-prone skin without being overly irritating.
• Oil Solubilization: Since you are using Moringa Oil (0.2%) and Fragrance (0.05%) in a water-based serum, ensure you mix them with the PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate first before adding them to the water phase to prevent cloudiness.

3. Minimum Order Quantities

Most of these ingredients are available in small sizes (e.g., 25g, 30ml, or 100g), which are more than enough for several batches of your serum.

4. Mixing Instructions

1. Water Phase: Dissolve Disodium EDTA, Glycerin, Propanediol, Safe-B3™, and Allantoin in water.
2. Thickening: Sprinkle Carbopol 940 onto the water and let it hydrate, then mix well.
3. Oil Phase: In a separate small container, mix Moringa Oil and Fragrance with PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.
4. Combine: Add the Oil Phase and Green Tea Extract to the Water Phase.
5. Neutralize: Add Triethanolamine slowly while stirring until the desired gel consistency and pH (approx. 5.5) are reached.
6. Preserve: Add the preservative and mix thoroughly.