Acne Spot Treatment Formulation: Choosing the Right Base (Gel, Cream, Serum)

Asked by: wanmai On: May 17, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am new to cosmetic formulation and would like guidance on creating an acne spot treatment. Which product base (Gel, Cream, or Serum) would be best for this type of product?

Answer

Acne Spot Treatment Formulation

Hello Khun Wan Mai,

It's great to hear that our website has been helpful! Regarding formulating an acne spot treatment, both gel and serum bases are generally popular choices. They tend to be lightweight, absorb quickly, and are easy to apply precisely to individual blemishes. A cream base can also be used, but it might feel a bit heavier depending on the specific formulation.

Salicylic Acid (BHA) is a very common and effective ingredient for acne treatment due to its ability to exfoliate skin cells and dissolve clogged pores. We have several types of Salicylic Acid available, each with different properties that make them suitable for various formulations:

  • Salicylic Acid (BHA): This is the standard powder form. It's not water-soluble and typically needs to be dissolved in a solvent like Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol before being added to a formula. The usage rate is usually 0.1-2% for leave-on products, as per FDA regulations.
  • SalicSoft® (Betaine Salicylate): This is a gentler, water-soluble form created by combining Betaine and Salicylic Acid. It offers exfoliating properties with added moisturizing benefits. It's suitable for gel or cream formulas that are left on the skin. It's water-soluble when the pH is adjusted to 3.8-4.2 with Triethanolamine. Usage rate is 1-4% (equivalent to 2% active Salicylic Acid).
  • Liquid Salicylic Acid (40% Active Salicylic, Cationic For Wash-Off): This is a liquid, water-soluble form that is easy to mix. While described as cationic and suitable for wash-off, the description also indicates it can be used in leave-on formulas. It's soluble directly in water. Usage rate is 1-5% (equivalent to 0.4%-2% active Salicylic Acid).
  • ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble): This is a water-soluble powder form where Salicylic Acid is encapsulated with cyclodextrin. This encapsulation allows it to dissolve directly in water and provides a timed-release effect, making it gentler on the skin. It's suitable for any acne treatment product. Usage rate is 1-5% (equivalent to 0.4%-2% active Salicylic Acid).

For a gel or serum spot treatment, water-soluble forms like SalicSoft®, Liquid Salicylic Acid, or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid would be easier to incorporate compared to the standard Salicylic Acid powder which requires a solvent. These water-soluble options are often preferred for their ease of use and potential for reduced irritation (especially SalicSoft and ActiveRelease).

In summary, a gel or serum base is a great choice for an acne spot treatment. Consider using a water-soluble form of Salicylic Acid like SalicSoft®, Liquid Salicylic Acid, or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid as a key active ingredient, keeping the usage rate within the FDA limit of 2% active Salicylic Acid for leave-on products.