Acne Whitening Gel/Essence Formulation Questions

Question

I am developing an Acne Whitening Gel/Essence formulation and have several questions regarding ingredient mixing, procedure, and efficacy: Micro Silver Dispersion: I have Micro Silver Porous™. I understand it needs to be dispersed in Glycerin. If I mix it with Liquid Azelaic™ and Glycerin, is simple stirring sufficient, or is shaking/mixing required? Is Nano Silver Pure™ an easier alternative for dispersion? Encapsulated SA & HEC: When adding Encapsulated Salicylic Acid with Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, should the HEC gel be fully formed first (requiring heating water to ~70°C and cooling), and then the Encapsulated SA added? Or can they be mixed together in the water phase before heating? Mixing Steps: I have a proposed mixing procedure. Could you review and suggest adjustments for better results? My current idea involves: Mixing Disodium EDTA in water. Taking 35% of the water/EDTA mix, heating to 70°C, adding Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, stirring until gel forms, then cooling. In the remaining water/EDTA mix, adding GlucoBright™ and Safe-B3™. Dispersing Micro Silver Porous™ in Glycerin. Combining all phases. Adding Liquid Azelaic™ and Encapsulated Salicylic Acid. Adjusting pH. Encapsulated SA Efficacy: Will Encapsulated Salicylic Acid still be effective for dissolving clogged pores at a final pH of 6-7? Using as Essence: If I omit the thickener (Hydroxyethyl Cellulose) and use the formulation as a liquid essence: Will the ingredients still be absorbed well into the skin? Will the Micro Silver Porous™ settle over time, requiring shaking before use?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Acne Whitening Gel Formulation Guidance

Here is guidance regarding your questions about the Acne Whitening Gel formulation:

A. Mixing Silver with Liquid Azelaic and Glycerin

Yes, Micro Silver Porous™ always needs to be dispersed in Glycerin. Mixing it with Liquid Azelaic™ does not eliminate the need for dispersion in Glycerin. As the staff mentioned, simply stirring may not be sufficient for proper dispersion; shaking or using a mixer might be necessary. An alternative for easier dispersion is Nano Silver Pure™, which is already dispersed in a base.

B. Mixing Encapsulated SA with Hydroxyethyl Cellulose

Yes, it is recommended to fully form the Hydroxyethyl Cellulose gel first, which requires heating water to around 70°C and stirring until the gel forms, and then letting it cool. Encapsulated Salicylic Acid should be added after the gel has cooled to below 40°C to avoid potentially damaging the encapsulation.

C. Proposed Mixing Steps

Your proposed mixing steps can be simplified and adjusted for better results:

Prepare the Water Phase: Combine the total amount of water and Disodium EDTA.
Form the Gel: Take a portion of the water/EDTA mixture (around 35% as you indicated) and heat it to approximately 70°C. Slowly add the Hydroxyethyl Cellulose powder while stirring continuously until a homogeneous gel forms. Let this gel cool down.
Prepare the Active Solution: In the remaining water/EDTA mixture, dissolve GlucoBright™ and Safe-B3™.
Disperse Silver: Disperse the Micro Silver Porous™ in Glycerin. Ensure it is well dispersed, using shaking or mixing if needed.
Combine Phases: Once the HEC gel has cooled to below 40°C, combine the cooled gel, the active solution from step 3, and the Glycerin/Silver dispersion from step 4. Mix gently until uniform.
Add Heat-Sensitive Actives: Add Liquid Azelaic™ and Encapsulated Salicylic Acid to the mixture. Mix gently to avoid high shear that could damage the Encapsulated Salicylic Acid.
Final Adjustments: Check and adjust the pH if necessary.

D. Encapsulated SA Efficacy at pH 6-7

Encapsulated Salicylic Acid can still work at a pH of 6-7 to help dissolve clogged pores. However, its effectiveness in exfoliating skin cells will be reduced compared to formulations with a lower, more acidic pH.

E. Using as Essence Without Thickener

Absorption as Essence: Yes, if you omit the thickener and use it as a liquid essence, the ingredients will still be absorbed into the skin.
Silver Settling: If you do not use a thickener, the Micro Silver Porous™ may settle over time. Shaking the product before each use will help redistribute the silver particles, allowing you to use the product effectively.