Active Ingredients for Acne Formulations

Based on your needs for a gel to control oil and kill bacteria, and a serum to dissolve clogged pores and reduce scars, here are some suitable active ingredients:

1. Gel for Killing Acne Bacteria and Controlling Oil

For a gel formulation targeting acne bacteria and oiliness, consider ingredients with antimicrobial and sebum-regulating properties that are suitable for a water-based gel:

• Pep®-Acne (Oligopeptide-10 Anti-microbial Peptide): This peptide specifically targets acne-causing bacteria by disrupting their cell membrane, offering an effective way to kill bacteria without causing resistance. It is water-soluble and can be easily incorporated into gel formulas.
• Sebum-Reg™ (Capryloyl Glycine): This ingredient helps control excess oil production by inhibiting the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase. It also has antibacterial properties, making it effective against P. acnes. It is water-soluble at a higher pH and then works best in the pH range of 4-6.
• Zinc PCA: Known for its ability to reduce skin oiliness and accelerate wound healing, Zinc PCA also has antibacterial properties and can help reduce inflammation associated with acne. It is water-soluble and works best in a pH range of 4-6.

Combining these ingredients can create a potent gel formulation that addresses both bacterial proliferation and excessive sebum, helping to clear existing acne and prevent new breakouts.

2. Serum for Dissolving Clogged Pores and Reducing Acne Scars

For a serum formulation focused on dissolving clogged pores and improving the appearance of acne scars, ingredients that promote exfoliation, skin renewal, and reduce hyperpigmentation are beneficial:

• Salicylic Acid (BHA) or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid: Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is highly effective at penetrating pores to dissolve sebum and dead skin cells, thus clearing clogged pores and preventing comedones. ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid is a water-soluble form that offers a gentler, timed release.
• Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA): A derivative of Salicylic Acid, LHA provides exfoliation and helps dissolve clogged pores. It is known to be gentler than traditional BHA and works well for acne-prone skin. Note that LHA is oil-soluble.
• Pumpkin Renew™: This gentle exfoliant derived from pumpkin accelerates skin cell turnover, similar to AHAs but with less irritation. This process helps to improve skin texture and can aid in reducing the appearance of acne scars over time. It is water-soluble.
• Bifida Repair Complex™ or Repair Activator™ BG: These ingredients, based on Bifida Ferment Lysate, support the skin's natural repair processes, enhance the skin barrier, and have anti-inflammatory effects. This can help the skin heal from acne lesions and reduce the severity of scarring. They are water-soluble.
• Actin AC (5-in-1 Anti-Acne): This comprehensive ingredient offers multiple benefits, including sebum regulation, anti-inflammatory action, reduction in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), regulation of keratinization, and antibacterial properties. It can significantly help in reducing acne lesions and improving the appearance of marks. It is oil-soluble.
• Pro Acne Solution Post-Acne Marks Reduction or Specialist B3 Serum: These are pre-mixed serum bases designed to address post-acne concerns. Pro Acne Solution contains Salicylic Acid and ingredients targeting acne marks and oiliness. Specialist B3 Serum contains Niacinamide, Glycolic Acid, and Tranexamic Acid, which are excellent for oil control, exfoliation, and reducing hyperpigmentation and scars. Using these bases can simplify formulation while providing multiple benefits.

A serum combining a pore-clearing ingredient like Salicylic Acid or LHA with ingredients that promote skin healing and reduce marks (like Bifida Ferment Lysate, Pumpkin Renew, Actin AC, or using one of the pre-mixed bases) would be effective for your serum formulation goals.

Remember to follow the recommended usage rates and mixing instructions for each ingredient when formulating.