Adapting SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum for Eye Area

Asked by: pattarinsuwan On: January 13, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding adapting a serum formula (similar to SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic) for use as an eye serum, I have the following questions about adjusting ingredient percentages and a proposed formula:

  1. When reducing an ingredient's percentage (e.g., Vitamin C), should the reduced amount be added back to the water phase to maintain a total of 100%?
  2. When adding a new ingredient (e.g., a preservative at 0.5%), should the water phase be reduced by that amount (0.5%) to keep the total at 100%, or is it added on top, resulting in a total over 100%?
  3. If I change the Vitamin C source to Liquid AA2G 25%, can the following formula be used?

    • น้ำกลั่น 33.2%
    • TEA 2.5%
    • Ferulic 0.5%
    • Panthenol 0.5%
    • Ethoxydiglycol 20%
    • Propylene glycol 10%
    • Glycerin 3%
    • Laureth23 3%
    • d-Alpha Tacopherol 1%
    • Liquid AA2G 25% 25%
    • Hyaluronic Acid standard 0.3%
    • Hyaluronic Acid Nano 0.5%
    • Eye Preserved 0.5%

    The total percentage for this proposed formula is 100%.

Answer

Subject: Re: Adapting SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic for Eye Serum

Hello Myskinrecipes Team,

Thank you for reaching out and sharing your positive experience with the SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic formula! It's great that you've found a base you love and want to adapt it for the delicate eye area. It's a smart approach to maximize the use of your existing ingredients.

You're right that the original formula, especially with 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, can be too potent for the eye area. The goal is to create an eye serum that retains the benefits (dark circles, wrinkles, moisture) but is gentler.

Regarding your questions about adjusting percentages:

  1. Reducing Vitamin C: Yes, when you reduce the percentage of an ingredient like Vitamin C (e.g., from 15% down to 7-8% L-AA as suggested by C7, or changing to a different form like AA2G), the difference in percentage is typically added to the water phase to keep the total formula at 100%.
  2. Adding a Preservative: Similarly, when you add a new ingredient like a preservative (e.g., 0.5% Eye Preserved), that percentage is usually subtracted from the water phase to maintain the total at 100%. You don't just add it on top, making the total over 100%.

Now, let's look at the formula you proposed using Liquid AA2G 25% and Eye Preserved 0.5%:

  • Water: 33.2%
  • TEA: 2.5%
  • Ferulic: 0.5%
  • Panthenol: 0.5%
  • Ethoxydiglycol: 20%
  • Propylene glycol: 10%
  • Glycerin: 3%
  • Laureth23: 3%
  • d-Alpha Tacopherol: 1%
  • Liquid AA2G 25%: 25%
  • Hyaluronic Acid standard: 0.3%
  • Hyaluronic Acid Nano: 0.5%
  • Eye Preserved: 0.5%

Summing these percentages: 33.2 + 2.5 + 0.5 + 0.5 + 20 + 10 + 3 + 3 + 1 + 25 + 0.3 + 0.5 + 0.5 = 100.5%.

Your calculation for the water phase (33.2%) based on the change from 15% L-AA to 25% Liquid AA2G and adding 0.5% preservative was correct: 43.7 (original water) - (25 - 15) - 0.5 = 43.7 - 10 - 0.5 = 33.2%. However, the total sum is slightly over 100%.

To make the total exactly 100%, you should reduce the water phase by the excess amount (0.5%).

Here is the refined formula with percentages adding up to 100%:

  • Water (น้ำกลั่น): 32.7%
  • TEA: 2.5%
  • Ferulic Acid: 0.5%
  • Panthenol: 0.5%
  • Ethoxydiglycol: 20%
  • Propylene glycol: 10%
  • Glycerin: 3%
  • Laureth23: 3%
  • d-Alpha Tocopherol: 1%
  • Liquid AA2G 25%: 25%
  • Hyaluronic Acid standard: 0.3%
  • Hyaluronic Acid Nano: 0.5%
  • Eye Preserved: 0.5%
  • Total: 100%

Using Liquid AA2G is a good choice as it's a more stable and less irritating derivative of Vitamin C compared to L-Ascorbic Acid, making it more suitable for the eye area. The concentration of AA2G in the final formula (assuming Liquid AA2G 25% means 25% of a liquid product containing AA2G, e.g., if the liquid is 20% AA2G, then the final formula has 5% AA2G) should be effective for brightening and antioxidant benefits. Eye Preserved is also a good choice for a gentle preservative system around the eyes.

This adapted formula maintains the core structure and many ingredients from your original serum while incorporating changes to make it gentler for the eye area, addressing your goals of reducing dark circles, wrinkles, and increasing moisture.

Important Note: Even with these adjustments, the formula still contains a high percentage of solvents (Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene glycol) which, while present in the original formula you liked, could potentially cause irritation for some individuals, especially in the sensitive eye area. Always perform a patch test before applying it around your eyes.

We hope this refined formula helps your under-eye area feel as happy as your cheeks and nose!

Best regards,
Myskinrecipes Team