Adding Actives to Face Massage Cream

Asked by: jn_andy On: September 19, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a pre-made face massage cream and would like to add the following active ingredients:

  • Vitamin C LAA for brightening
  • Coenzyme Q10 for anti-aging
  • Hi-EGCG (Green Tea Extract EGCG) for oily skin

Could you please advise on:

  1. The compatibility and stability of adding Vitamin C LAA to this cream?
  2. Whether Coenzyme Q10 can be added?
  3. Whether Hi-EGCG can be added, and how (e.g., solubility)?
  4. The overall effectiveness and absorption of these added actives when used with this cream, considering its composition (which I perceive as having high oil content) and the long massage time (30-45 minutes)?

Answer

Subject: Adding actives to face massage cream

Based on the ingredients provided and the staff's reply:

  1. Adding Vitamin C LAA for brightening:

    • While your cream contains Vitamin E, which helps reduce oxidation, L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA) requires specific conditions, including appropriate pH and often other antioxidants like Ferulic Acid, for stability.
    • Adding LAA directly to this pre-made formula might lead to rapid degradation.
    • The staff recommends using more stable Vitamin C derivatives instead, such as Vitamin C Ester or Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), which are more suitable for adding to existing formulations.
  2. Adding Coenzyme Q10 for anti-aging:

    • Yes, you can add Coenzyme Q10 to this formula.
    • The presence of Cetearyl Alcohol in the ingredient list will help emulsify Coenzyme Q10 into the cream.
  3. Adding Hi-EGCG for oily skin:

    • Yes, you can add Hi-EGCG (Green Tea Extract EGCG) to this formula.
    • Assuming Hi-EGCG is water-soluble, you should dissolve it in the water phase of the cream before mixing.
  4. Effectiveness of actives with high oil content during massage:

    • Based on the ingredient list starting with water, this cream appears to be an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.
    • O/W emulsions are generally effective at delivering active ingredients into the skin. Water-soluble actives are in the outer phase and contact the skin directly, while oil-soluble actives are easily absorbed.
    • Compared to water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions (which are better for creating a barrier on the skin), O/W emulsions facilitate better penetration of water-soluble actives.
    • The long massage time (30-45 minutes) can also help improve the absorption of the active ingredients into the skin.