Adding AHA and Alpha Arbutin to Bar Soap: Challenges and Efficacy
Question
I have questions about adding AHA and Alpha Arbutin to bar soap, especially concerning claims like "AHA 80%".
1. If adding AHA and Alpha Arbutin to a bar soap base, is it better to add them at a lower temperature like 30°C, or is it still possible to add them when the base is hotter? I'm concerned that at 30°C, the base might harden too quickly.
2. If these ingredients (AHA, Alpha Arbutin) are added while the soap base is still hot, will they still be effective?
3. How does AHA interact with the structure of bar soap?
4. How does Alpha Arbutin interact with the pH of bar soap?
5. Regarding products that claim high concentrations, such as "AHA 80%" and Alpha Arbutin, but do not list these ingredients, what is the expert's opinion on the likelihood of these ingredients actually being present and effective, and what might explain rapid whitening effects if not from the claimed ingredients?
Answer
Incorporating AHA and Alpha Arbutin in Bar Soap
Regarding your questions about adding AHA and Alpha Arbutin to bar soap:
- Adding at 30°C vs. Higher Temperatures: Active ingredients like AHA and Alpha Arbutin are often sensitive to heat. Adding them to a hot soap base will likely cause them to degrade, reducing or eliminating their effectiveness. While adding at a lower temperature like 30°C is better for preserving the actives, as you noted, the soap base might harden too quickly to incorporate them properly. This highlights the challenge of adding such ingredients to traditional bar soap bases.
- Efficacy if Added Hot: No, if added while the soap base is still hot, the high temperature will likely degrade the AHA and Alpha Arbutin, and they will not be able to exert their intended effects.
- AHA and Soap Structure: Traditional bar soap made via saponification is alkaline (high pH, typically 9-10). AHA is an acid. Adding an acid to an alkaline base causes a reaction (neutralization) which can reduce the effectiveness of the AHA and also negatively impact the soap's structure, potentially making it soft or preventing it from solidifying properly. Creating a bar soap that can accommodate acidic ingredients like AHA requires special formulations (e.g., using synthetic detergents or specific manufacturing processes to achieve a lower pH).
- Alpha Arbutin and Soap pH: Alpha Arbutin is unstable in alkaline conditions. In the high pH environment of traditional bar soap, Alpha Arbutin can break down into Hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is a regulated substance with potential side effects, and its presence in cosmetics is restricted or prohibited in many places.
- Products with Misleading Claims: As discussed in the conversation, a product claiming high concentrations of AHA (like 80%) and Alpha Arbutin but not listing these ingredients on the label is highly suspicious. This suggests false advertising or the inclusion of unlisted, potentially harmful ingredients. Rapid skin whitening from such a product might be due to prohibited substances like Hydroquinone or Mercury, rather than the claimed ingredients. Regulatory approval (like อย.) should ensure accurate labeling and safe ingredients; products with such discrepancies warrant caution and further investigation.
In summary, effectively and safely incorporating AHA and Alpha Arbutin into traditional alkaline bar soap is chemically challenging due to pH and temperature constraints. Products making exaggerated claims without transparent ingredient lists should be viewed with skepticism.