Improving Your Dark Spot Gel Formula

You've observed that a commercial cream effectively reduced dark spots, while your gel formula, primarily using Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, hasn't shown the same results. As the staff pointed out, the effectiveness of the original cream likely comes from the synergistic action of several key ingredients working together, not just Azelaic Acid derivatives alone.

The original cream formula contains a combination of whitening and exfoliating agents, including Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, and Arbutin. It also includes ingredients known for reducing irritation, such as Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Aloe Vera Extract, and Cucumber Extract, which are important when using potent actives.

To improve your gel formula and potentially achieve better results similar to the original cream, consider incorporating the following ingredients:

• Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid: These are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) that help exfoliate the skin, promoting cell turnover and helping to fade dark spots. Based on the staff's estimation and typical usage, you could add 1-3% of each.
• Alpha Arbutin: This is a popular skin-brightening agent that works by inhibiting melanin production. The recommended usage rate for Alpha Arbutin is typically 0.2-2%, with 2% often recommended for optimal whitening results.
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Aloe Vera Extract, and Cucumber Extract: These ingredients help soothe the skin and reduce potential irritation that can occur when using exfoliating acids and whitening agents. Consider adding Dipotassium Glycycyrrhizate at 0.5-1.0%, Aloe Vera Extract at around 3%, and Cucumber Extract at 3-5%.

Your current formula uses 10% Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate. While this ingredient is effective, the recommended usage rate for cosmetic applications is typically lower, around 0.1-2.0%. Using a very high concentration might not provide significantly better results and could increase the risk of irritation, especially when combined with other strong actives. You might consider reducing the Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to 1-2% when combining it with the other suggested ingredients.

Here is a suggested structure for a revised gel formula, incorporating these ingredients (adjust water percentage to reach 100%):

• Water
• Disodium EDTA
• Allantoin
• Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (1-2%)
• Lactic Acid (1-3%)
• Glycolic Acid (1-3%)
• Alpha Arbutin (1-2%)
• Pro Polymer
• Pentylene Glycol
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (0.5-1.0%)
• Aloe Vera Extract (3%)
• Cucumber Extract (3-5%)
• Phenoxyethanol

Remember that the texture of the original cream is also influenced by ingredients like Cyclomethicone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Dimethicone, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, and Laureth-7, which create a different base compared to your gel. Achieving the exact same texture may require adjusting your base formula.

Important Considerations:

• pH Level: Ensure the final pH of your formula is suitable for the active ingredients. AHAs and Alpha Arbutin are typically most effective and stable in a slightly acidic pH range (e.g., 4.0-5.5). You may need to adjust the pH after adding all ingredients.
• Patch Testing: Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the new formula to your face to check for any irritation or adverse reactions.
• Results Vary: The time it takes to see results can vary depending on individual skin type and the severity of the dark spots.

By combining Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate with Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, and Alpha Arbutin, along with soothing ingredients, you can create a more comprehensive formula targeting dark spots from multiple angles.