Adding Antioxidants to Oil-Free Gel for Post-Acne Skin

Asked by: pray14 On: August 05, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing an oil-free gel formula for skin with clogged pores and post-acne issues (redness, dark spots), to be used alongside a BHA toner. The goal is to provide moisture, reduce redness and dark spots, reduce sensitivity, and strengthen the skin, while avoiding oil. I have started with the following ingredients:

  • Hydro Protein 5.00%
  • Aloe Vera Extract 3.00%
  • Licorice Root Extract 1.00%
  • Glucosamine 4.00%
  • Vitamin B3 5.00%
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 3.00%
  • Allantoin
  • Phenoxyethanol 0.50%

The staff recommended adding Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 5% and Pro Polymer or Natural Organic Thickener 1-1.5% to build the gel texture and enhance moisture, and to carefully calculate the Allantoin percentage. What other ingredients can be added to this formula to further enhance its effectiveness for moisturizing, reducing redness/dark spots, reducing sensitivity, and strengthening the skin?

Answer

Antioxidant Recommendations for the Gel Formula

Adding an antioxidant can help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce inflammation, and improve the appearance of redness and dark spots. For the oil-free gel formula recommended by the staff, consider one of the following water-soluble antioxidants:

Option 1: Vitamin C Derivative (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate)

Vitamin C derivatives like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) are stable forms of Vitamin C that are excellent for brightening skin tone, reducing dark spots, and providing antioxidant protection.

  • Recommended Ingredient: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
  • Recommended Usage Rate: 3-5%
  • Benefits: Helps fade dark spots, brightens complexion, provides antioxidant benefits.
  • Considerations: These ingredients are most stable at a pH between 7 and 9. You may need to adjust the final pH of your gel formula to this range. Adding a chelating agent like Disodium EDTA at 0.05% is also recommended to improve stability.

Option 2: Green Tea Extract (Hi-EGCG™ or ActiveRelease™ EGCG)

Green Tea Extract is a powerful antioxidant with anti-inflammatory and anti-acne properties, making it particularly suitable for skin prone to redness and breakouts.

  • Recommended Ingredient: Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract) or ActiveRelease™ EGCG
  • Recommended Usage Rate:
    • Hi-EGCG™: 1-3%
    • ActiveRelease™ EGCG: 1-3% (up to 5% can be used)
  • Benefits: Strong antioxidant, reduces inflammation (helps with redness), can help reduce oiliness and improve acne, provides photoprotection.
  • Considerations: Hi-EGCG™ is a liquid extract. ActiveRelease™ EGCG is an encapsulated powder that dissolves well in water and offers gradual release. Both should be added in the final step of mixing below 40°C. The optimal pH for Hi-EGCG™ is 4.0-6.5. ActiveRelease™ EGCG is water-soluble and its stability across pH ranges is generally good, but check specific supplier data if available. Protecting the final product from light (e.g., using an opaque bottle) is important for maintaining the efficacy of green tea extract.

Choose the antioxidant that best aligns with the primary goals for the gel formula alongside the BHA toner. If targeting dark spots and overall brightening is a higher priority for the gel, a Vitamin C derivative like SAP or MAP is a good choice. If reducing redness, inflammation, and supporting acne treatment is the focus for the gel, Green Tea Extract like Hi-EGCG™ or ActiveRelease™ EGCG would be very beneficial.