Adding Azelaic Acid to Pro Polymer Gel and Foaming Issues

Question

I am formulating a gel using Pro Polymer. I initially tried mixing Azelaic Acid (Water Soluble) in water first, then adding Pro Polymer, which resulted in significant foaming.

Based on the expert's suggestion, I should add Azelaic Acid (Water Soluble) in the final step after the gel is fully formed with Pro Polymer. The expert also mentioned using a low mixing speed at this stage to minimize foaming.

Could you confirm this method and explain why adding Azelaic Acid at the end with low speed mixing helps reduce foaming compared to dissolving it in water first?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Feedback

Based on the provided discussion regarding your cosmetic formulation:

Thickness (46% Actives): The expert opinion in the thread suggests that a total active ingredient concentration of 46% is likely too high. This can result in a sticky texture that is unpleasant to use and may reduce skin absorption. Reducing the percentage of active ingredients, as discussed in the thread (e.g., to 32%), was considered a better approach.
pH 6: The provided conversation does not contain information regarding the suitability of pH 6 for this specific formulation. Therefore, I cannot confirm if this pH is appropriate based on the text.
Foaming: The excessive foaming experienced is likely primarily due to the mixing method and the type of equipment used. The discussion also suggests that Azelaic Acid can contribute to foaming, especially if added early or mixed vigorously. To minimize foaming, it was recommended to add Azelaic Acid last, after the gel has fully formed, and mix using a low speed.
Color from B12: Please note that Cyanocobalamin (B12) at 1% will impart a strong red-pink color to the formula. If you prefer a lighter pink color, consider reducing the concentration to 0.2-0.3% as suggested by the staff.