Adding Azelaic Acid to Water-Based Serum with Niacinamide and N-Acetyl Glucosamine

Asked by: pokbenjawan On: November 05, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a water-based formulation containing Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and N-Acetyl Glucosamine. I want to add Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) to this formula. What is the recommended concentration for Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™), and what pH range should the final product be in to ensure stability and compatibility with the other active ingredients?

Answer

Adding Azelaic Acid to Your Formulation

Based on your question, you can add Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) at a concentration of 10% to your water-based formulation. This concentration is within the recommended usage range for this ingredient for skin brightening and oil control.

Regarding pH adjustment, while Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) itself is compatible with a wide pH range (5-11) in the final product, your formulation also contains Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and N-Acetyl Glucosamine. These ingredients are most stable and effective in a slightly acidic to neutral pH range, typically between 5 and 7. Niacinamide, in particular, can convert to Niacin at pH values outside this range, which might cause skin flushing.

Therefore, it is highly recommended to check the pH of your final formulation after adding all ingredients, including the Azelaic Acid. Adjusting the pH to be within the range of approximately 5.5 to 6.5 would help ensure the stability and optimal performance of all active ingredients in your formula and potentially minimize irritation.

When adding Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™), make sure to mix it in the final step of your formulation process, and the temperature should be below 40°C.

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