Adding Foundation/BB Makeup to Water-in-Oil Sunscreen Formula

Asked by: emmaline.pec On: May 05, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am working on a sunscreen formulation and have received a staff-recommended formula using SPF Protect Ultra II, BEMT, Octisalate, and Water-in-Oil EZ. I want to add foundation/BB makeup ingredients to this base. My previous attempt with a formula using Titanium Dioxide Nano, Zinc Oxide Nano, and Silicone Gel Ultra Clear with only 5% water was unsuccessful as the staff indicated it could not be mixed.

Based on the staff-recommended Water-in-Oil formula:

  1. What should the texture be like, considering the use of Water-in-Oil EZ and Oil-Fix, and the staff's comment about lower oiliness? How can I address potential greasiness?
  2. Is it possible to add foundation/BB makeup powder ingredients (such as Silk Mica, BB Micro Silk, Beige Iron Oxides, WhiteMatte, Mica Shimmer, Bismuth Oxychloride, Red Iron Oxides) to this cream base? If so, what is the recommended method and percentage range for the powder addition to ensure stability and desired coverage without issues like pilling?

Answer

Regarding the formula recommended by the staff (using SPF Protect Ultra II, BEMT, Octisalate, Water-in-Oil EZ, etc.):

  1. Texture: Based on the use of Water-in-Oil EZ and Oil-Fix, which are Emulsifier and Stabilizer for Water-in-Oil emulsions, and the staff's comment about lower oiliness compared to other formulas (due to using highly effective sunscreens at appropriate levels), the texture should be relatively easy to spread and not leave excessive greasiness. However, the nature of Water-in-Oil emulsions might give a slightly occlusive feel, which helps with water resistance, but it should not be overly heavy or sticky. If it still feels very greasy, you might consider reducing the amount of some sunscreens as advised by the staff or adjusting the amount of Emollient in the formula.
  2. Adding Foundation (BB Makeup): This is possible. Generally, the powder ingredients of BB Makeup are added after the cream is formed by gradually adding them while mixing to ensure good and even dispersion within the cream. The amount of BB Makeup that can be added, the staff previously suggested that the total foundation powder content (including Silk Mica, BB Micro Silk, Beige Iron Oxides, WhiteMatte, Mica Shimmer, Bismuth Oxychloride, Red Iron Oxides) can be around 20-27% or even up to 25-35%, depending on other ingredients in the formula and the Emulsifier's ability to maintain stability.

    Therefore, if you have the cream base from the staff's recommended formula, you can prepare your desired BB Makeup mixture (according to the list you previously provided) and gradually add it to the cream while mixing until fully incorporated. An amount of 20-35% of the weight of the cream base should be a suitable range to achieve the desired coverage without causing significant issues with stability or pilling.

Regarding the formula you previously provided (using Titanium Dioxide Nano, Zinc Oxide Nano, Silicone Gel Ultra Clear, etc.):

  • The formula you provided with only 5% water was clearly stated by the staff as cannot be mixed. This is because the water-soluble ingredients (such as GlucoBright, Vitamin B3, Alpha Arbutin) are too high in concentration for the 5% water to dissolve them completely, preventing the formula from coming together.

Conclusion:

  • The latest formula recommended by the staff (using SPF Protect Ultra II, BEMT, Octisalate, Water-in-Oil EZ) is likely to provide a better texture than your previous formula and can serve as a base for adding BB Makeup ingredients.
  • You can prepare your desired BB Makeup mixture (approximately 20-35% of the cream's weight) and gradually add it to the cream base from the staff's formula while mixing to create a sunscreen with foundation properties as you wish.
  • Your previous formula (with 5% water) cannot be mixed due to the solubility limitations of the water-soluble ingredients.