Adding Ingredients to Cica Sleeping Mask Base and Stability Concerns

Asked by: vjarern086 On: January 09, 2023 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding using Cica Sleeping Mask Base (compare to Laneige) as a base, can I mix these ingredients?:

  1. Oil Solution (Total 9g):
    • Shea Butter (Ultra Soft) 6.5g (Warm to 60°C)
    • TXC™ (Cetyl Tranexamate HCl) 1g
    • MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine) 0.5g
    • Natural Bisabolol 1g
  2. Water/Powder Solution (Total 11g):
    • WhiteCumin™ 2x (สารสกัดขมิ้น, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane) 4g
    • Skin-Barrier™ (Skin Barrier Restoration) 5g
    • VersaMoist™ (PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether) 2g
  3. Powder Ingredients (Total 15g):
    • 4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate) 1g
    • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland) 5g
    • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4g
    • Z-White™ 1g
    • Natural Betaine 2g
    • Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation) 2g

Proposed Mixing Steps:

  1. Gradually dissolve the powder ingredients (Step 3, 15g) into the water/powder solution (Step 2, 11g) for a total of 26g.
  2. Mix this 26g solution with 74g of Cica Sleeping Mask Base.
  3. Then, add the oil solution (Step 1, 9g) and mix until combined.
  4. Finally, add Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) 1g.

If I follow these steps, will there be any problematic steps? Will the resulting mixture be stable? Is it necessary to add Satin Cream Maker to support it?

Answer

Formulation Advice for Cica Sleeping Mask Base Modification

Regarding your plan to add several ingredients to the Cica Sleeping Mask Base, here is an evaluation of your proposed steps and potential stability:

Your proposed formula involves adding a significant amount of additional ingredients (approximately 36% of the total formula weight) to the Cica Sleeping Mask Base. While the base is designed to accommodate additional active ingredients, there are a few points in your plan that could lead to instability:

  • Exceeding Oil Load Capacity: The Cica Sleeping Mask Base description states it can accommodate a maximum increase of 10% of oil or silicone. Your proposed oil phase is 9g, which is approximately 12.16% relative to the 74g of base. This exceeds the recommended maximum oil load for the base, which is a primary concern for emulsion stability.
  • Mixing Order: Adding the oil phase (Step 4, after mixing the water/powder phase into the base) is generally not the ideal method for incorporating an oil phase into an existing emulsion base. Emulsions are delicate structures, and adding a significant oil phase at the end can disrupt the emulsification system of the base, leading to separation.
  • High Total Addition: Adding 36g of ingredients to 74g of base is a substantial modification. While the base supports electrolytes well, the overall high concentration of added materials, combined with the oil load and mixing order, increases the risk of instability.

Will the mixture be stable?

Based on the points above, particularly exceeding the base's oil capacity and the proposed mixing order, the resulting mixture has a high risk of instability and may separate over time.

Is Satin Cream Maker needed?

Satin Cream Maker is an effective emulsifier and thickener that can handle higher oil loads and is electrolyte resistant. Adding it could potentially help improve stability by reinforcing the emulsion system. However, simply adding it to your current proposed steps might not fully compensate for the issues of overloading the base and the problematic mixing order.

For better stability, you might need to:

  • Reduce the total percentage of added ingredients, especially the oil phase, to stay within the Cica base's recommended limits.
  • Adjust the mixing procedure. A more stable approach might involve incorporating the oil phase differently, perhaps pre-emulsifying it before adding to the base, or even considering formulating from scratch if you need to include such high percentages of active ingredients and oil.
  • If using Satin Cream Maker, you might need to adjust the overall formulation approach to leverage its emulsifying properties effectively, potentially using it to build the emulsion rather than just adding it to an existing base that is being pushed beyond its limits.

In summary, while the Cica Sleeping Mask Base is versatile, your proposed modification, especially the amount of oil and the mixing order, is likely to result in an unstable product. Adding Satin Cream Maker might help, but it's not a guaranteed solution without adjusting the overall formulation strategy.