Adding Ingredients to Cosmetic Formula: Percentage, Sunscreen, Fragrance, Anti-Irritant, Preservative
Question
I want to make a cosmetic formula and have a few questions regarding the percentages and adding other ingredients:
- Does the percentage (%) in the formula represent grams?
- Can I add other ingredients to this formula, specifically:
- Sunscreen (to achieve SPF 50)?
- Fragrance (to make it long-lasting)?
- An ingredient to help reduce irritation?
- A preservative?
Answer
Hello! I'm happy to provide some initial guidance.
Regarding your questions:
Does '%' mean grams? In cosmetic formulations, percentages (%) typically refer to weight by weight (w/w). This means the percentage represents the weight of an ingredient relative to the total weight of the formulation. For example, if a formula is 100 grams total, then 1% of an ingredient would be 1 gram. If the total batch size is different (e.g., 500 grams), then 1% would be 5 grams (1% of 500 grams). So, it's a ratio of weight, not directly grams unless your total batch size is exactly 100 units (grams or milliliters, depending on whether it's w/w or v/v, but w/w is most common for solid/semi-solid formulations).
Can you add other ingredients? Yes, it is generally possible to add other ingredients, but doing so will change the original formula and requires careful consideration of compatibility, stability, and the overall balance of the formulation. Here's a breakdown for the types of ingredients you mentioned:
- Sunscreen SPF 50: Adding sunscreen to achieve a specific SPF (like SPF 50) is complex. It requires incorporating specific UV filters at appropriate concentrations and ensuring they are evenly dispersed and stable within the formula. Achieving a certified SPF value usually requires specific formulation expertise and testing. It's not as simple as just adding a sunscreen ingredient; the entire formula needs to be designed to support the UV filters and provide the desired protection.
- Fragrance: Fragrance can usually be added to a formulation to provide a pleasant scent. You would typically add a small percentage (e.g., 0.1% to 1%, depending on the strength of the fragrance and desired intensity). Ensure the fragrance is compatible with the other ingredients and doesn't cause instability or irritation.
- Irritation Reduction Agent: Ingredients designed to reduce irritation can often be added. The suitability and effective concentration depend on the specific anti-irritant agent you choose and the nature of your base formula.
- Preservative: Adding a preservative is often crucial, especially if your formulation contains water or is likely to come into contact with water or air during use. Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria, mold, and yeast, ensuring the safety and shelf life of your product. You need to choose a preservative system that is effective against a broad spectrum of microbes and is compatible with your formula's pH and ingredients.
In summary, while you can add these ingredients, it's important to understand that each addition changes the original formula. You may need to adjust the percentages of other ingredients, and it's advisable to perform stability testing to ensure the final product remains safe and effective over time.