Adding Ingredients to Glycerin Soap Base: pH Compatibility and Formulation Limitations

Asked by: chan_naay On: February 24, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to request formulas for making soap using glycerin soap base for the following concerns:

  • Acne reduction
  • Melasma, freckles, and dark spot reduction
  • Wrinkle reduction
  • Skin nourishment

Answer

Adding Ingredients to Glycerin Soap Base

Glycerin soap base typically has a high pH, which means that many common skin-benefiting ingredients are not suitable to add as they can degrade quickly in an alkaline environment.

Ingredients That Can Be Added

Generally, only ingredients that are stable and effective at a high pH (alkaline) should be added. Based on the information, BioSulphur™ EQ (Water Soluble Sulfur) is an example of an ingredient that can tolerate a high pH (up to 11) and is suitable for use in soap for acne treatment.

Ingredients to Avoid Mixing

The primary concern is the incompatibility of most beneficial skin ingredients with the high pH of glycerin soap base, which causes them to lose efficacy.

Specifically, BioSulphur™ EQ should be avoided with all types of Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) as they can react and cause Vitamin C to deteriorate.

Formulations for Specific Concerns

Due to the high pH of glycerin soap base, it is not ideal for incorporating many active ingredients aimed at specific skin concerns beyond basic cleansing.

  • Acne Reduction: For acne treatment, BioSulphur™ EQ can be added. It helps reduce oiliness, tighten pores, eliminate dandruff, and reduce redness from acne. The recommended usage rate is 1-10%, with 4-5% suggested for oily faces.
  • Melasma / Dark Spots: Glycerin soap base is generally not suitable for formulations targeting melasma or dark spots as effective ingredients for these concerns are typically not stable at high pH.
  • Wrinkles / Skin Nourishment: Glycerin soap is not suitable for reducing wrinkles or providing significant skin nourishment. Its high alkalinity can potentially dry out the skin and negatively impact skin health.

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