Adding Moisturizer to Facial Wash Gel: Sodium PCA vs WaterLock

Asked by: dew-everything On: April 17, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a facial wash gel formula containing Lauryl Glucoside 5%, Coco Wash 10%, Creamy Foamer 15%, Propylene Glycol, and Glycerin. I want to add Sodium PCA 50% to make the formula feel more moisturizing after rinsing. How should I incorporate Sodium PCA 50% into this formula, and what percentage should I use to achieve a noticeable moisturizing effect?

Answer

Moisturizing Facial Wash Gel Formulation

Based on your current facial wash gel formula and your goal to add a slightly moisturizing feel, here's some guidance:

Your current formula includes several humectants (Propylene Glycol, Glycerin) and surfactants. While Sodium PCA 50% is an excellent moisturizer and part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) with a recommended usage rate of 0.5-2%, its effect in a wash-off product like a facial cleanser might be limited as it gets rinsed away.

As suggested by the staff, WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51) is a highly recommended ingredient for wash-off products. It is designed to adhere to the skin even after rinsing, helping to prevent water loss (TEWL) and providing a lasting moisturizing feel. It can also help reduce potential irritation from surfactants.

  • Recommendation: Consider adding WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51) to your formula at a rate of 1-2%. This is likely to provide a more noticeable moisturizing effect after rinsing compared to Sodium PCA in a wash-off application.
  • Alternative (using Sodium PCA): If you prefer to use the Sodium PCA 50% you have, you can try adding it at a rate of 0.5-2%. While it will contribute to moisturization during washing, the lasting effect after rinsing might be less pronounced than with WaterLock.

Additionally, as the staff mentioned, your current formula has a relatively high total percentage of surfactants (Lauryl Glucoside 5%, Coco Wash 10%, Creamy Foamer 15% = 30%). If you still feel dryness, you might consider slightly reducing the total amount of surfactants in your formula.

To incorporate either WaterLock or Sodium PCA 50%, simply add the desired percentage to the water phase of your formulation.

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