Adding MSH White and Sym-White to a Gel Lotion Base

ถามโดย: thelittledraco เมื่อ: October 07, 2017 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I would like to ask the following:

Regarding a commercially available gel lotion with the following ingredients (I don't know the exact percentage of each ingredient):

  • Water
  • Alcohol denat
  • Isopropyl Palmitate
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Butylene Glycol
  • Polymethylsilsesquioxane
  • Triethanolamine
  • Acrylates/c10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  • Fragrance
  • Ethylhexylglycerin
  • Disodium EDTA
  • Magnesium Aspartate
  • Zinc Gluconate
  • Corallina Officinalis Extract
  • Copper Gluconate

Can I add the following ingredients to this base?

  • MSH White 5%
  • Sym-White 0.5%

Currently, I am using these two ingredients mixed into another brand of lotion, but the texture is too heavy for daytime use. Therefore, I would like to switch to the gel lotion base mentioned above.

Are there any other ingredients you would recommend adding? My expectation from the lotion is skin whitening.

คำตอบ

Adding Whitening Actives to Your Gel Lotion Base

You're looking to enhance a gel lotion with MSH White and Sym-White for skin whitening, seeking a lighter texture than your current lotion. Let's look at the compatibility of adding these actives to the specific gel lotion base you've described.

The gel lotion base contains ingredients such as Water, Alcohol denat, Isopropyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Triethanolamine, Acrylates/c10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Fragrance, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, and Copper Gluconate.

Adding MSH White (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) at 5%:
MSH White is an effective whitening agent that works by reducing melanin production. However, it typically needs to be dissolved in oil or the oil phase of a formulation, often with gentle heat. The recommended usage rate for MSH White is 0.5-2%. Adding 5% is higher than the generally recommended maximum concentration, which might affect the stability and texture of the final product, especially in a pre-made base where the exact composition and oil phase percentage are unknown. While your base contains Isopropyl Palmitate (an oil/ester) and Alcohol denat which might help dissolve it, incorporating a high percentage into an existing gel structure can be challenging.

Adding Sym-White (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) at 0.5%:
Sym-White is another potent skin brightening ingredient. However, its stability can be affected by certain ingredients and pH levels. The description for Phenylethyl Resorcinol indicates that it should ideally be used in formulations with a pH between 4-5 for optimal stability. It also advises against using it with ingredients like Carbomer (Acrylates/c10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a type of carbomer) and potentially amino acid derivatives (Magnesium Aspartate and Zinc Gluconate are mineral salts of aspartic acid and gluconic acid, where aspartic acid is an amino acid). Since your gel lotion base contains Acrylates/c10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and likely has a pH higher than 4-5 (gel formulations using carbomers and Triethanolamine are typically neutralized to a higher pH, often around 6-7), adding Sym-White to this specific base may lead to stability issues or reduced efficacy.

Recommendation:
Given the potential compatibility issues with the existing gel lotion base ingredients (specifically the thickener and pH) and the high concentration of MSH White you wish to add, directly incorporating MSH White and Sym-White into this pre-made base might not yield the best results and could compromise the stability and texture of the lotion.

For effective skin whitening with a light texture, consider formulating a new gel base specifically designed to be compatible with potent water-soluble whitening actives. Alternatively, look for alternative water-soluble whitening ingredients that are known to be stable and effective in gel formulations.

Other effective water-soluble whitening ingredients suitable for gel bases include:

  • Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): Effective for reducing hyperpigmentation, improving skin tone, and strengthening the skin barrier. It is water-soluble and generally compatible with a wide pH range suitable for gels.
  • Alpha Arbutin: A well-known skin brightener that inhibits melanin production. It is water-soluble and stable within a pH range compatible with many gel formulations.
  • Licorice Extract (water-soluble): Contains Glabridin, which has both whitening and anti-inflammatory properties. The water-soluble form is easy to incorporate into gel bases.

These ingredients can be incorporated into a suitable gel base to create a light-textured product targeting skin whitening without the potential compatibility challenges posed by adding MSH White and Sym-White to your current lotion base.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Triethanolamine 99%
Triethanolamine 99%
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
เครื่องสำอาง
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA
เครื่องสำอาง
Butylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
เครื่องสำอาง
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ethylhexylglycerin
เครื่องสำอาง
MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)
MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ethyl Alcohol (99.9% , 200 Proof, Research/Perfumer Grade)
Ethyl Alcohol (99.9% , 200 Proof, Research/Perfumer Grade)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377)
Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377)
เครื่องสำอาง
Polymethylsilsesquioxane 4.5microns (Soft-Focus / Matte)
Polymethylsilsesquioxane 4.5microns (Soft-Focus / Matte)
เครื่องสำอาง
Zinc Gluconate
Zinc Gluconate
เครื่องสำอาง
Copper Gluconate
Copper Gluconate
เครื่องสำอาง
Magnesium Aspartate
Magnesium Aspartate
เครื่องสำอาง
Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble)
Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
Isopropyl Palmitate (IPP)
Isopropyl Palmitate (IPP)
เครื่องสำอาง
Dried Orange Peels (for oil-based)
Dried Orange Peels (for oil-based)
เครื่องสำอาง