Adding PEG-12 Dimethicone (Water-Soluble Silicone) to Formulation and its Effect on Hair

Asked by: akakkoii On: March 07, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding PEG-12 Dimethicone (water-soluble silicone):

  1. Can it be added in the final step of a formulation? It is heat sensitive (tolerates up to 80°C), but previously it was added at 85°C and evaporated.
  2. If added in the final step, will this silicone have any negative effects on hair?

Answer

Using PEG-12 Dimethicone in Formulations

Regarding your questions about PEG-12 Dimethicone:

  1. Adding in the final step: Yes, you can add PEG-12 Dimethicone in the final step of your formulation. Since it is sensitive to heat and can evaporate at temperatures above 80°C, adding it during the cool-down phase or at the end of the process, when the temperature is below its heat tolerance, is the correct approach to prevent degradation or loss of the ingredient.

  2. Effect on hair when added in the final step: Adding water-soluble silicones like PEG-12 Dimethicone in the final step is common practice in hair formulations. These silicones are beneficial for hair as they provide conditioning, improve wet and dry combability, add shine, and reduce frizz. Because they are water-soluble, they rinse off easily and do not cause significant build-up on the hair over time. Adding it in the final step ensures you get these benefits without exposing the ingredient to damaging heat.

Similar water-soluble silicones such as PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone and FoamTex™ (PEG-17 Dimethicone) also have heat limitations and are often recommended to be added in the water phase or final step of a formulation.

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