Adding Powder and Liquid Actives to Serum Base

ถามโดย: adtrues เมื่อ: July 11, 2012 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I would like to add the following ingredients to a serum base like KA White Night Serum:

  • Alpha Arbutin
  • Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate)
  • Glucosamine (N-acetyl-D)
  • Licorice Extract

For the powder ingredients (Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), Glucosamine (N-acetyl-D)), the staff mentioned dissolving them in distilled water first. Does this mean mixing all the powders together and then gradually adding distilled water to dissolve them, or dissolving each powder separately in distilled water before adding to the base?

Also, can I use the liquid Licorice Extract as a solvent instead of distilled water to dissolve the powders?

Furthermore, if I cannot find distilled water, can I use bottled drinking water? Or can I use distilled water sold for car batteries?

คำตอบ

Formulation 1: Skin Whitening Serum

Ingredients to add:

  • Alpha Arbutin
  • Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate)
  • Glucosamine (N-acetyl-D)
  • Licorice Extract
  • Note:* The staff advised against adding more Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) as it is already present in the KA White Night Serum base. Adding more might not provide additional benefits and could potentially cause issues.

Can these ingredients be mixed into the base?
Yes, Alpha Arbutin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, N-acetyl-D Glucosamine, and Licorice Extract can generally be incorporated into a serum base like the KA White Night Serum, provided the final pH is suitable.

Mixing Method, Order, and Precautions:

  1. Prepare the Powder Ingredients: Alpha Arbutin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and N-acetyl-D Glucosamine are powders. As advised by the staff, these must be dissolved in distilled water before adding them to the base.
    • Use a minimal amount of distilled water, just enough to dissolve the powders completely. Using too much water will dilute the base.
    • Add the powders one by one to the distilled water. Add the first powder (e.g., Alpha Arbutin), stir until fully dissolved, then add the second powder (e.g., Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), stir until dissolved, and so on.
    • Important: Do not use tap water as it may contain minerals that can affect ingredient stability. Do not use Licorice Extract liquid to dissolve the powders; use only distilled water. Quality distilled water for car batteries from a gas station can be used if cosmetic-grade distilled water is unavailable.
  2. Add Licorice Extract: Licorice Extract is a liquid. It can be added to the dissolved powder mixture or directly to the base.
  3. Combine with Base: Gently add the mixture of dissolved powders and Licorice Extract to the KA White Night Serum base. Stir slowly and thoroughly until everything is evenly combined. Avoid vigorous mixing that could introduce excessive air.
  4. Check and Adjust pH: This is a critical step for stability and effectiveness.
    • The staff recommends a final pH between 6.0 and 6.5.
    • Alpha Arbutin is stable between pH 3.5-6.5.
    • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is stable between pH 7-9.
    • N-acetyl-D Glucosamine is stable between pH 3-7.
    • Licorice Extract is stable between pH 3.5-6.5.
    • A pH of 6.0-6.5 is a compromise that offers reasonable stability for Alpha Arbutin, N-acetyl-D Glucosamine, and Licorice Extract, although it is slightly below the optimal range for Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. You will need pH strips or a pH meter to check the pH of your final mixture. If the pH is outside the 6.0-6.5 range, you may need to adjust it using a dilute acid (like citric acid solution) to lower pH or a dilute base (like sodium hydroxide solution) to raise pH. Add very small amounts at a time, mix, and re-check the pH.
  5. Observation: After mixing, observe the serum for any changes in texture, color, or separation over 24-48 hours.

Maximizing Effectiveness:

  • Ensure the ingredients are fully dissolved and evenly dispersed.
  • Maintain the recommended pH range (6.0-6.5).
  • Store the finished product properly (away from light and heat, ideally in a cool place) to maintain ingredient stability.

Formulation 2: Anti-Aging and Lifting Serum

Ingredients to add:

  • Sea Kelp Bioferment
  • Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
  • Note:* The staff advised against adding DMAE Bitartrate to this base because it is acidic and incompatible unless the pH is significantly adjusted with a base, which could affect the stability of other ingredients or the base itself.

Can these ingredients be mixed into the base?
Yes, Sea Kelp Bioferment (Sea Kelp Extract) and Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (Tryptic-Soy) can be incorporated into the KA White Night Serum base.

Mixing Method, Order, and Precautions:

  1. Add Ingredients Gradually: Sea Kelp Extract and Tryptic-Soy are liquids/dispersions. The staff recommends adding these directly to the base gradually.
  2. Mix Thoroughly: Add a small amount of the ingredient, stir gently until fully incorporated, then add a bit more. Continue this process until the desired amount is added.
  3. Observe Texture and Skin Feel: As you add the ingredients, pay attention to how the texture and consistency of the serum change. The staff suggests adding gradually and testing the skin feel to ensure you like the result, as adding these ingredients can alter the base's texture.
  4. pH Compatibility: Sea Kelp Extract is stable up to 60°C and is soluble in water. Tryptic-Soy is dispersible in water. The pH range for Sea Kelp Extract is not specified in the description, but Tryptic-Soy can be dissolved in water, suggesting compatibility with aqueous systems. The KA White Night Serum base likely has a pH suitable for the ingredients it contains (including Niacinamide, which is stable in a wide range, optimally 4-7). Adding Sea Kelp Extract and Tryptic-Soy is less likely to cause drastic pH shifts compared to DMAE Bitartrate. However, checking the final pH (aiming for the base's original pH or slightly adjusted if needed for ingredient stability, though specific pH ranges for these two are less critical than for the whitening agents) is still good practice.
  5. Observation: After mixing, observe the serum for any changes in texture, color, or separation over 24-48 hours.

Maximizing Effectiveness:

  • Ensure even dispersion of the ingredients in the base.
  • Store the finished product properly (away from light and heat, ideally in a cool place).

General Advice on Adding Multiple Ingredients

Adding multiple active ingredients to a pre-made base requires careful consideration of compatibility, concentration limits, and potential interactions. While combining ingredients can offer comprehensive benefits, adding too many or exceeding recommended usage rates can lead to:

  • Instability: The formulation might separate, change color, or lose effectiveness.
  • Reduced Efficacy: Ingredients might interfere with each other's performance.
  • Skin Irritation: Higher concentrations or incompatible combinations can increase the risk of adverse skin reactions.
  • Undesirable Texture: The feel and appearance of the product can be negatively affected.

The staff's recommendation to add ingredients gradually and test the skin feel is excellent advice. It's often better to start with lower concentrations and fewer ingredients, observe the results, and then adjust if necessary. Consider the recommended usage rates for each ingredient and stay within those guidelines.

By following these steps and paying attention to the specific requirements of each ingredient and the base, you can create customized serums that are both effective and stable.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
เครื่องสำอาง
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Sea Kelp Extract
Sea Kelp Extract
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
เครื่องสำอาง
Tryptic-Soy™
Tryptic-Soy™
เครื่องสำอาง