Adding Shea Butter to Cream Formula for Heavier Texture

Question

I have the following cream formula:

Water: 67.50%
Satin Mousse (Silky Cream Maker): 1.0%
Squalane (Olive Oil): 10.0%
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 1.0%
Perfect-C: 5.0%
Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch): 10.0%
Bisabolol (German Chamomile Extract): 1.0%
Skin Defense: 2.0%
Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid: 2.0%
Phenoxy ethanol: 0.5%
Total: 100.0%

If I want to make this cream formula heavier by adding Shea Butter, can I melt the Shea Butter in the oil phase using heat, wait for it to cool down, and then mix in other oil-soluble ingredients like Perfect-C, Vitamin E, etc. (since these other oil-soluble ingredients cannot tolerate heat)? If this method is incorrect, please advise on the correct procedure.

Also, what is the recommended amount of Shea Butter to add? Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Adding Shea Butter to Your Cream Formula

To make your cream formula thicker by adding Shea Butter, your proposed method of melting Shea Butter in oil with heat is partially correct. However, you should be mindful of the heat sensitivity of other oil-soluble ingredients like Perfect-C and Vitamin E.

Here is a recommended method:

Prepare the Oil Phase: Combine your oil-soluble ingredients that can tolerate heat, including Shea Butter (if using a solid type like Refined or Ultra Soft, which requires melting), Squalane, and Satin Mousse. Heat this oil phase to the temperature required to melt the Shea Butter (typically 60-70°C for solid types). If using Shea Butter Melt, it can be added without high heat.
Prepare the Water Phase: Heat the water phase separately.
Emulsify: Combine the heated oil and water phases according to the instructions for your emulsifier (Satin Mousse) to form the cream emulsion.
Cool Down: Allow the emulsion to cool down while stirring.
Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Once the cream has cooled to below 50°C (and ideally lower for Vitamin E), add your heat-sensitive oil-soluble ingredients such as Perfect-C and Vitamin E. Stir until fully incorporated.
Add Remaining Ingredients: Add other ingredients like Ceramide Complex, Bisabolol, Skin Defense, Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid, and Phenoxyethanol at the appropriate cooling stage as per their instructions.

This method ensures that the Shea Butter is properly melted and incorporated while protecting the heat-sensitive ingredients from degradation.

Recommended Amount of Shea Butter

To increase the thickness of your cream, you can add Shea Butter at a concentration of 5-10% of the total formula. You will need to reduce the percentage of the water phase accordingly to keep the total formula at 100%. For example, if you add 5% Shea Butter, reduce the water from 67.50% to 62.50%. If you add 10% Shea Butter, reduce the water to 57.50%. The exact amount can be adjusted based on your desired final texture.

Shea Butter is a rich emollient that will contribute to a heavier feel and provide moisturizing benefits.