Adding Ingredients to Your Formulas

You asked about adding Arbutin, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Papain (Papaya Enzyme), and Tranexamic Acid to your two formulas.

• Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3) and Tranexamic Acid: The staff confirmed that these ingredients can be added to your formulas.
• Papain (Papaya Enzyme): This can also be added, but it is crucial to check the pH of your formula first. Papain is most effective and stable within a pH range of 5.0 to 7.0. Although the staff anticipates your formulas might be in this range, measuring with a pH meter is recommended to be certain.
• Arbutin: There are different types of Arbutin available.
  • Alpha Arbutin (including the Switzerland, China Enzymatic Synthesis, and China Crystal Form grades) is water-soluble and effective for skin brightening. It is stable in formulas with a pH between 3.5 and 6.5. It's important not to mix Alpha Arbutin into formulas with a pH higher than 8, as it can break down into hydroquinone. The recommended usage rate is typically 0.2-2%, with 2% often recommended for optimal whitening results.
  • Deoxyarbutin (D-Arbutin) is another type with high whitening efficiency. Unlike Alpha Arbutin, it is oil-soluble and requires gentle heating (50-60°C, avoiding temperatures over 60°C) to dissolve. Deoxyarbutin is most stable in formulas with a pH between 5.0 and 5.8. While effective, Deoxyarbutin can cause skin irritation, so it's recommended to start with a lower concentration (e.g., 0.5%) and not exceed 2%.

When adding any new ingredient, it's always a good practice to test compatibility and stability in a small batch of your specific formula before making a larger quantity.