Adding Water-Soluble Color to Lip Balm Stick: Emulsifier Choice & Formula Calculation

Hello! I understand the challenge of incorporating water-soluble natural pigments into an oil- and wax-based lip balm stick. The issue you encountered with the soft texture and lack of color payoff likely stems from the water phase (water + dissolved pigment) not being properly emulsified into the oil/wax base. Water and oil naturally separate, leading to an inconsistent texture and poor color dispersion.

To successfully combine a water phase with an oil/wax base like your lip base, you need an emulsifier. Both Water Balm™ and Warp Cream Maker™ are emulsifiers, but they are designed for different types of formulations and mixing processes.

• Water Balm™: Based on its description, Water Balm™ is specifically designed as a "Balm builder" suitable for products like lip balm, lipstick, and butter balm. It has the ability to bind a small amount of water (up to 10% of the total formulation) into an oil or wax base (which makes up the majority, around 90%). This makes it a suitable choice for your goal of adding a water-soluble color to a lip balm stick. The mixing method involves incorporating it into the heated oil phase and then gradually adding the water phase while stirring or blending.
• Warp Cream Maker™: This is a water-in-oil emulsifier often used for creams, lotions, and liquid makeup (like foundations) that require a light, quick-absorbing feel. Its mixing method typically requires high-speed blending (at least 1000 rpm) and often involves silicone oils. While it can be used in lip cream, Water Balm™ appears more directly suited for creating a solid or semi-solid balm/stick texture with a small water phase.

Given your goal of making a lip balm stick and incorporating a water-soluble color like beet root, Water Balm™ seems like the more appropriate choice due to its intended use as a balm builder and its ability to bind water in an oil/wax system suitable for sticks.

Explanation of "Water Balm™ can bind up to 10% water of the formulation":
This means that in your final lip balm formula, the total weight of all ingredients that are water-based or dissolved in water (like water, dissolved beet root pigment, or any other water-soluble extracts) should not exceed 10% of the total weight of the finished product. Water Balm™ helps to keep this small water phase evenly dispersed within the larger oil and wax phase, preventing separation and ensuring a consistent texture and color distribution.

Sample Formula for Lip Balm Stick with Beet Root Color (using your 15g base):
Assuming your 15g is the main oil/wax base part, we can build a formula around it. To incorporate a water phase (water + beet root) using Water Balm™, we need to ensure the total water phase is no more than 10% of the final formula weight. Let's aim for a total formula weight of approximately 18-20 grams, which should yield about 3 sticks depending on the mold size.

Here is a sample formula based on using Water Balm™ and incorporating Beet Root Red Pigment:

• Lip Base (your oil/wax blend): 15 g
• Water Balm™: 0.9 - 1 g (This is approximately 5% of a target 18-20g formula, a recommended usage rate for Water Balm™)
• Beet Root Red Pigment (Natural Pigment, Powder): 0.15 - 0.2 g (This is approximately 0.8-1% of a target 18-20g formula, within the recommended usage rate for color intensity)
• Water (distilled or deionized): 1.7 - 1.9 g (Adjust this amount so that Water + Beet Root Powder total is no more than 10% of your final batch weight. For a target 18g batch, total water phase is max 1.8g. If you use 0.15g beet root, you need max 1.65g water. If you use 0.2g beet root, you need max 1.6g water. Let's use ~1.65g water for 0.15g beet root for a total water phase of 1.8g in an ~17.7g formula).

Total approximate batch size: 15 g + 1 g + 0.15 g + 1.65 g = ~17.8 g

Mixing Instructions:

1. In a heat-resistant container, combine your 15g Lip Base and the Water Balm™. Heat gently (around 70-80°C, as recommended for Water Balm™) until fully melted and combined. Stir well.
2. In a separate small container, dissolve the Beet Root Red Pigment in the measured amount of Water. Ensure it is fully dissolved. (Note: Beet Root Red Pigment works best in a pH range of 4-5. Ensure your water phase pH is within this range if possible for color stability).
3. Once the oil/wax/Water Balm™ phase is melted and combined, slowly and gradually add the water/beet root solution to the melted oil phase while continuously stirring or blending. Use a small whisk or a mini-mixer/milk frother to help emulsify the mixture thoroughly until it is smooth and uniform.
4. Remove from heat and continue stirring gently as it cools slightly. Pour the mixture into your lip balm tubes before it solidifies.
5. Allow the lip balms to cool and harden completely (this may take up to 24 hours for the texture to fully set).

By using Water Balm™ as an emulsifier, you can successfully incorporate the water-soluble beet root color into your lip balm base, resulting in a more stable texture and better color payoff. Remember to adjust the amount of beet root powder to achieve your desired color intensity, keeping the total water phase within the 10% limit facilitated by the Water Balm™.

I hope this helps you create your colored lip balm sticks successfully!