Adding Whitening and Oil Control to SPF Protect Ultra II Sunscreen Formula
Question
I am making a sunscreen using SPF Protect Ultra II. I want the formula to make the face look bright/fair and reduce oiliness. What ingredients should I add?
My formula is:
- SPF Protect Ultra II = 15%
- Warp Cream Maker = 14%
- Cyclomethicone = 15%
- Dimethicone = 5%
- Polyethylene Wax = 2%
- Aloe Vera Extract = 3%
- Water = Remaining amount
Answer
Enhancing Your Sunscreen Formula for Whitening and Oil Control
To achieve a brighter complexion and reduce oiliness in your sunscreen formula using SPF Protect Ultra II, you can incorporate specific active ingredients. Based on your goal, consider adding ingredients from the following categories:
For Skin Whitening
Several ingredients can help brighten the skin and reduce dark spots by targeting different stages of melanin production:
- Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377): Known for its potent tyrosinase inhibition, which is key in melanin production. It also offers antioxidant benefits. Recommended usage rate is 0.1-1.0% (typically 0.5% for leave-on products). It should be mixed into the cream in the final step, and the finished product pH should be 4-5 for stability.
- GlyciWhite™ (Glycinamide HCL): Research indicates it effectively counteracts melanin production gently without causing irritation. Recommended usage rate is 3-10% (recommended 5%). Mix into the water phase, avoiding heat above 60°C.
- AEPWhite™ (Aminoethylphosphinic Acid): This ingredient works by stabilizing DOPAchrome, a step downstream of tyrosinase inhibition, leading to reduced melanin density and improved skin luminosity. It can be used alone or combined with tyrosinase inhibitors for synergistic effects. Recommended usage rate is 0.1-1.0% (recommended 0.5%). Mix into the water phase, avoiding heat above 60°C.
- Z-White™ (Zinc Glycinate): Works by inhibiting tyrosinase activators and preventing tyrosinase formation, offering a different mechanism for whitening. Recommended usage rate is 0.1-3% (recommended 1%). It can dissolve in water.
Choose one or a combination of these whitening ingredients based on your desired efficacy and formulation compatibility.
For Oil Control and Mattifying Effect
To reduce the oily feel and provide a matte finish, consider adding Silica Dimethyl Silylate ingredients:
- Oil-Fix™ S (Silicone Gelling, Silica Dimethyl Silylate): Designed to act as a thickening/gelling agent in silicones and mineral oil. It helps reduce stickiness and gives a matte finish (use level 0.5-4%). It can be dispersed in formulations containing oils, silicones, or hydrocarbons.
- Oil-Fix™ W (Oil/Silicone, Silica Dimethyl Silylate): Similar to Oil-Fix S, it increases stability in water-in-oil or water-in-silicone formulas, reduces stickiness, and provides a soft, matte texture (use level 0.5-4%). It also improves waterproof performance (use level 2-4%), which is beneficial for a sunscreen. It can be dispersed in formulations containing oils, silicones, or hydrocarbons.
Adding Oil-Fix™ S or Oil-Fix™ W can help modify the texture of your sunscreen to feel less oily and provide a smoother, matte appearance on the skin.
Remember to follow the specific mixing instructions and recommended usage rates for each ingredient you choose to add to your formula. Always perform stability testing on your final product.
Related Products Mentioned
Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor)
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
SPF Protect Ultra™ II
Z-White™