Adding Xanthan Gum to Moisturizer Cream Formulation

Asked by: kansenklang On: July 29, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding a moisturizer cream formulation with the following ingredients and percentages:
DI Water 46.5%
Diglycerin 5%
Rose Hip Oil 10%
Dimethicone 10%
EGCG 1%
Bifida powder 1%
Pitera powder 1%
Ectoine 2%
Panthenol 2%
Ethoxydiglycol 2.5%
1,2-Hexanediol 5%
Light Cream Maker 3%
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
Disodium EDTA 0.5%
Do I need to add Xanthan Gum additionally? Thank you.

Answer

Moisturizer Formulation Review

You have provided a detailed formulation for a moisturizer cream. The ingredients include:

  • DI Water
  • Diglycerin
  • Rose Hip Oil
  • Dimethicone
  • EGCG
  • Bifida powder (Repair Activator)
  • Pitera powder (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate)
  • Ectoine
  • Panthenol
  • Ethoxydiglycol
  • 1,2-Hexanediol
  • Light Cream Maker
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Disodium EDTA

You are asking if you need to add Xanthan Gum to this formula.

Your formulation already uses Light Cream Maker at 3%, which is designed to act as both an emulsifier and a thickener for oil-in-water creams without requiring heat. It is capable of handling oil phases up to 20% and can work with silicones like Dimethicone. Your formula contains 10% Rose Hip Oil and 10% Dimethicone, totaling 20% oil/silicone, which is within the recommended range for Light Cream Maker.

Xanthan Gum is another common thickener used in the water phase of cosmetic formulations. It helps increase the viscosity and can improve the stability of emulsions by thickening the water portion.

Whether you need to add Xanthan Gum depends on the desired final consistency and the stability of the cream produced with Light Cream Maker alone.

  • If the current formulation with 3% Light Cream Maker provides the desired thickness and remains stable over time (no separation), then adding Xanthan Gum may not be necessary.
  • If you prefer a thicker texture or if you observe any instability (like thinning or separation), adding a small amount of Xanthan Gum (typically 0.1% to 0.5%) can help increase viscosity and enhance the overall stability of the emulsion.

It is recommended to make a small test batch of your formula as written first. If the texture or stability is not satisfactory, then try adding Xanthan Gum at a low percentage and observe the results before incorporating it into a larger batch.