Addressing Film Formation and Pilling in Serum, Gel, and Cream Formulations

Subject: Addressing Film Formation and Pilling in Your Formulations

Hello, thank you for providing your formulations and describing the issues you're experiencing with film formation and pilling. This is a common problem in cosmetic formulations, often caused by certain types of ingredients that create a film on the skin or result in solid residue when the water evaporates.

Here's an analysis of your formulas and potential causes:

General Causes of Film Formation and Pilling:

• Film-Forming Polymers: Ingredients like certain gums, thickeners, or specific types of silicones can create a film on the skin. If this film is not flexible or compatible with subsequent layers (like makeup), it can peel or rub off, causing pilling.
• High Concentration of Dissolved Solids: When a formula contains a high percentage of water-soluble ingredients (like salts, sugars, or certain active powders), these ingredients can be left behind as a residue on the skin surface after the water evaporates, leading to a powdery or flaky texture that pills when rubbed.
• Ingredient Incompatibility: Some ingredients may not be fully compatible with each other, causing them to separate or aggregate on the skin surface.
• Application Method: Applying too much product or rubbing the skin vigorously before the product is fully absorbed can also contribute to pilling.

Analysis of Your Formulations:

Formula 1 (Serum/Gel):
Ingredients: DI Water, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Seamollient, Sea Kelp, Green Cavier, Snail Extract, Japanese Cedar, Rose Extract, DMI, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin.

• Likely Culprits: The high total concentration of various botanical and marine extracts (Palmaria Palmata, Seamollient, Sea Kelp, Green Cavier, Snail Extract, Japanese Cedar, Rose Extract) and Xanthan Gum.
• Explanation: Many natural extracts contain polysaccharides and other components that can form a noticeable film on the skin when the water base dries. Xanthan Gum is a polysaccharide thickener that is known to cause pilling in some formulations, especially at higher concentrations or in combination with other film-formers. The combined effect of multiple extracts and Xanthan Gum is very likely causing the strong film and subsequent pilling when applying powder.
• Suggestion: Consider reducing the total concentration of the extracts. You might also try slightly reducing the Xanthan Gum concentration, ensuring it is fully hydrated during preparation.

Formula 2 (Serum/Gel):
Ingredients: Alpha Arbutin, Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), Gluco Bright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine), DMI, Madecassoside (Centella Asiatica Extract), Phenoxyethanol, DI Water.

• Likely Culprits: The relatively high total concentration of water-soluble active powders (Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Madecassoside).
• Explanation: While these are excellent actives, when dissolved in water at higher percentages, they can leave a residue on the skin surface as the water evaporates. This residue can feel like a film or cause pilling when rubbed or layered with other products.
• Suggestion: Try reducing the total concentration of these active powders. You could also consider adding a small amount of a non-pilling humectant (like Propanediol) or a very light, non-film-forming emollient to improve the skin feel and reduce residue.

Formula 3 (Cream):
Ingredients: DI Water, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, D-Panthenol (B5), DMI, Glycerin, Light Cream Maker, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mineral Oil, Olive Oil, Cyclopentasiloxane (Silicone Gel), E-wax, Mild Preserved Eco.

• Likely Culprits: The Silicone Gel (which contains Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer) and potentially the Light Cream Maker, depending on its composition.
• Explanation: Silicone crosspolymers are designed to create a smooth, often film-like feel, but they are also a very common cause of pilling, especially when rubbed. Some emulsifiers or thickeners used in cream bases (like Light Cream Maker) can also contribute to pilling.
• Suggestion: The most probable cause here is the Silicone Gel. Try reducing its concentration significantly or replacing it with a non-crosspolymer silicone fluid like Cyclopentasiloxane or a low-viscosity Dimethicone, which are less likely to cause pilling. You might also need to evaluate the Light Cream Maker and potentially reduce its amount or try a different emulsifier system if the issue persists after adjusting the silicone.

General Tips to Reduce Pilling:

• Apply a very thin layer of the product.
• Allow the product to fully absorb and dry completely before applying any other product (like makeup or powder).
• Apply subsequent products by patting rather than rubbing.
• Ensure all ingredients are fully dissolved and properly incorporated during manufacturing.

By adjusting the concentrations of the identified ingredients, particularly the extracts, gums, high-concentration actives, and silicone crosspolymer, you should be able to reduce or eliminate the film formation and pilling issues.