Addressing Lotion Pilling (Rolling Up)

Asked by: pimpatt89 On: January 26, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Why does my homemade lotion pill or roll up on the skin when applied, and is reducing the silicone content the correct way to prevent this issue?

Answer

Addressing Lotion Pilling (Rolling Up)

It's common for lotions to sometimes "pill" or roll off the skin in small pieces. Silicone can indeed be a contributing factor to this issue, especially certain types or when used at high concentrations.

Why Silicone Can Cause Pilling

Some silicones, particularly those designed to form a film on the skin (like Silicone Film (Soft Film, Low Viscosity, Isododecane Base) or Silicone Film (Soft Film, Low Viscosity, Cyclopentasiloxane Base)), can contribute to pilling. When applied, these silicones create a layer. If this layer is too thick, or if other ingredients in the formula or on the skin interfere, the film can break and roll up.

Heavier, non-volatile silicones like Dimethicone (Heavy/500k, Low-Odor) might also be more prone to pilling than very light, volatile ones like Dimethicone (Very Light/2, Volatile) or Dimethicone (Very Light/5, Low-Odor), which evaporate quickly or spread very thinly.

Other Factors Contributing to Pilling

While reducing silicone might help, pilling can also be caused by:

  • Other Film-Forming Ingredients: Ingredients like certain polymers, gums, or thickeners can also create films that pill.
  • Ingredient Incompatibility: Some ingredients simply don't mix well and can cause the formula to destabilize or separate on the skin.
  • Application Technique & Amount: Applying too much product, not letting previous layers absorb, or excessive rubbing can lead to pilling.
  • Skin Condition: Dry skin with accumulated dead skin cells can sometimes cause products to pill.

Recommendations

  • Reduce Silicone: Try reducing the concentration of silicone in your formula, especially if you are using film-forming types or high percentages of heavier silicones.
  • Consider Silicone Type: Experiment with different types of silicones. Lighter, more volatile silicones might be less likely to pill.
  • Review Other Ingredients: Check for other film-forming ingredients in your formula and their concentrations.
  • Adjust Application: Advise users to apply a thinner layer, ensure skin is well-exfoliated, and pat rather than rub the product in.

Adjusting the silicone content is a good starting point, but a holistic review of the formula and application method is often necessary to fully resolve pilling issues.