Addressing Stickiness in a Serum Formulation

Asked by: kookkaiiip On: April 17, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a formulation with the following ingredients and percentages:
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3/7348-z-white-zinc-glycinate.html:3swuwqzh]Z-White[/url:3swuwqzh] 1
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/68-alpha-arbutin-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:3swuwqzh]Alpha Arbutin[/url:3swuwqzh] 2
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1213-4msk-potassium-methoxysalicylate.html:3swuwqzh]4MSK[/url:3swuwqzh] 2
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1140-tranexamic-acid-%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%84-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%94.html:3swuwqzh]tranexamic[/url:3swuwqzh] 3
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/116-glucosamine-n-acetyl-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:3swuwqzh]GlucoBright[/url:3swuwqzh] 4
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:3swuwqzh]Niacinamide[/url:3swuwqzh] 5
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7-moisturizer/6376-lactic-acid-aha-neutralized.html:3swuwqzh]Lactic Acid (AHA) Neutralized[/url:3swuwqzh] 5
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%8B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87/1070-polyethylene-glycol-peg4000.html:3swuwqzh]Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate[/url:3swuwqzh] 1
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/111-panthenol-pro-vitamin-b5-%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B55.html:3swuwqzh]Panthenol[/url:3swuwqzh] 1
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/75-allantoin-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%8B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2.html:3swuwqzh]Allantoin[/url:3swuwqzh] 0.5
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/5987-dimethyl-isosorbide-isosorbide-dimethyl-ether.html:3swuwqzh]Dimethyl Isosorbide[/url:3swuwqzh] 3
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/184-disodium-edta-2na.html:3swuwqzh]EDTA[/url:3swuwqzh] 0.2
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:3swuwqzh]Mild Preserved Eco[/url:3swuwqzh] 1
Water remaining percentage

The formulation feels very sticky when applied to the skin. I would like to know:

  1. Which ingredients contribute to the skin stickiness, and what is the recommended reduced usage percentage for them?
  2. If I do not want to reduce the usage percentages in the formula, what non-silicone ingredients can be added to increase slip and help reduce skin stickiness?

Answer

Addressing Stickiness in Your Formulation

Based on the ingredients and their percentages in your formulation, the stickiness you are experiencing is likely due to the combined effect of several water-soluble ingredients, particularly humectants and the thickener.

1. Ingredients Contributing to Stickiness and Potential Adjustments

The following ingredients are the most probable contributors to the sticky feel:

  • Xanthan Gum (1%): This is a thickener, and at 1%, it can often cause a tacky or sticky sensation, even with a non-stretching grade.
  • Niacinamide (5%): While beneficial, Niacinamide at 5% can sometimes leave a slightly tacky feel on the skin.
  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) (4%): This is a humectant and active ingredient, and its concentration contributes to the overall feel, potentially adding to stickiness.
  • Lactic Acid (AHA) Neutralized (5%): As an AHA and humectant, this can also contribute to the feel and potential tackiness.
  • Panthenol (1%): At 1%, Panthenol can add a bit of tackiness, although it's less likely to be the primary cause compared to higher concentrations.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (3%): This penetration enhancer can sometimes leave a slight feel on the skin.
  • Mild Preserved Eco (1%): This blend contains Ethylhexylglycerin and Propanediol, both of which can contribute a minor feel.

To reduce stickiness by adjusting the current formula, you could consider:

  • Reducing Xanthan Gum: Try reducing the Xanthan Gum percentage. A typical range for a serum or light gel might be 0.2% to 0.5%. This is often the most impactful change for reducing tackiness caused by the gelling agent.
  • Slightly reducing high-percentage humectants/actives: If reducing Xanthan Gum isn't enough, you could consider slightly lowering the percentages of ingredients like Niacinamide, GlucoBright, and Lactic Acid Neutralized. However, be mindful that reducing these might impact the efficacy of your formulation. It's best to reduce them gradually and test the feel.

Finding the right balance often requires experimentation with different percentages.

2. Adding Non-Silicone Ingredients to Improve Slip and Reduce Stickiness

If you prefer not to significantly reduce the concentrations of your active ingredients, you can add other non-silicone ingredients specifically designed to improve skin feel, increase slip, and reduce tackiness. Based on available options, consider these:

  • WaterSil™ 8/12: This is a liquid detackifier specifically formulated for water-based gels. It's designed to reduce stickiness and provide a silky-smooth sensation and effortless glide without making the formula opaque. It can be used at 0.1-3%.
  • AllSlip-P™: This is a powder designed to provide a soft, smooth feel on the skin and improve spreadability, acting as a non-silicone alternative for a "slip" effect. It can be used at 3-10%.
  • MatteSilica 5™: This silica powder can improve the glide of the formulation and help absorb excess oil, which can contribute to a sticky feeling. It can be used at 0.1-20%.
  • UltraBlur™: This silica powder also provides a slippery feel and helps with skin blurring, which can improve the overall sensory experience. It can be used at 0.1-10%.
  • Polyglide™: This powder can create a smooth surface feel. It is typically used at 1-5%.

You could try adding one or a combination of these ingredients to your formulation. Start with a lower recommended percentage and gradually increase it until you achieve the desired feel. Powders like AllSlip-P™, MatteSilica 5™, and UltraBlur™ will need to be properly dispersed in your formulation. WaterSil™ 8/12 and Polyglide™ are water-soluble/dispersible.