Adjusted Cream Formula for Melasma and Wrinkles (Combination/Dehydrated Skin)
Question
I have a cream formula for melasma and wrinkles, suitable for combination/dehydrated skin. I would like to ask about the formula and some other questions.
My formula is:
- Water: Remaining percentage
- LipidSoft CC: 15%
- Repair Activator: 10%
- Argireline: 10%
- DMAE: 10%
- Willow Bark Extract: 10%
- Sweet Almond Oil: 5%
- MOIST24: 5%
- Active Resveratrol: 3%
- Pep-Coll: 3%
- Trans-White: 3%
- Vitamin B5 (Extra Lite): 3%
- 1,2-Hexanediol: 3%
- Cell-Energy: 2%
- PE-1 Aqua: 2%
- Satin Cream Maker: 1.5%
- Mild Preserved Eco: 0.8%
- Sym-White: 0.5%
- Sodium EDTA: 0.2%
My questions are:
- Are there any ingredients in this formula that are redundant, used in inappropriate amounts, or incompatible with each other?
- Can Essential Oil be added to this formula?
- Can Plankton Extract be used instead of Repair Activator in this formula?
- If I want to make a dish soap that doesn't dry out hands, can I use products from the store?
Answer
Subject: Adjusted Cream Formula for Melasma and Wrinkles (Combination/Dehydrated Skin)
Thank you for your questions regarding your cream formulation. Based on the staff's recommendations, here is the adjusted formula and answers to your specific questions:
Adjusted Formula
Here is the suggested adjusted formula, incorporating the staff's recommendations. The exact percentage of Water will depend on the final percentages of the other ingredients.
- Water: Remaining percentage
- LipidSoft CC: 5% (Reduced from 15%)
- Repair Activator: 5% (Staff suggested reducing from 10%, but 10% is also possible)
- Argireline: 10%
- DMAE: 0% (Removed)
- Willow Bark Extract: 5% (Staff suggested reducing from 10%, but 10% is possible if melasma is severe)
- Sweet Almond Oil: 5%
- MOIST24: 5%
- Active Resveratrol: 3%
- Pep-Coll: 3%
- Trans-White: 3%
- Vitamin B5 (Extra Lite): 2% (Staff suggested reducing from 3%, but 3% is also possible)
- 1,2-Hexanediol: 3%
- Cell-Energy: 2%
- Penetration Enhancer: 3% (Use Phospholipid if you have a mixer, or Reservoir-Tech if mixing manually. Replaces PE-1 Aqua)
- Satin Cream Maker: 1.5% (Adjust as needed for texture)
- Mild Preserved Eco: 0.8%
- Sym-White: 0.5%
- Sodium EDTA: 0.2%
Mixing Steps (Revised based on staff recommendations)
(A) Oil-Phase: Mix LipidSoft CC (2), Sweet Almond Oil (7), and the chosen Penetration Enhancer (15').
(B) Water-Phase: Mix Water (1), Sodium EDTA (19), Repair Activator (3), Argireline (4), Willow Bark Extract (6), MOIST24 (8), Active Resveratrol (9), Trans-White (11), Vitamin B5 (12), 1,2-Hexanediol (13), Cell-Energy (14), Sym-White (18), and Satin Cream Maker (16).
Combine (A) + (B) gradually while mixing, then add Pep-Coll (10) and Mild Preserved Eco (17).
Answers to Your Questions
Redundancy, Inappropriate Amount, or Incompatibility:
- DMAE: The staff recommended removing DMAE (10%) as it is an electrolyte and incompatible with Satin Cream Maker.
- LipidSoft CC: The staff recommended reducing LipidSoft CC from 15% to 5%. Combined with Sweet Almond Oil (5%), the total oil phase is 10%, which is sufficient for combination skin and helps avoid a greasy feel.
- Penetration Enhancer: PE-1 Aqua (2%) was deemed unsuitable for formulas with oil-soluble actives. The staff recommended replacing it with Phospholipid (3%) if you have a mixer or Reservoir-Tech (3%) if mixing manually.
- Potential Reductions: The staff suggested potentially reducing Repair Activator (from 10% to 5%), Vitamin B5 (from 3% to 2%), and Willow Bark Extract (from 10% to 5%). However, they noted that Willow Bark Extract can remain at 10% if melasma is severe. These reductions aim for a more balanced formula, but the original percentages are also possible depending on desired intensity.
Adding Essential Oil:
- The staff could not comment on potential scent clashes.
- They strongly advised caution when adding essential oils as they can cause skin irritation, especially certain types like Tea Tree Oil.
Replacing Repair Activator with Plankton Extract:
- The staff explained that while no ingredient is a perfect replacement for another in terms of exact efficacy, both Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate) and Plankton Extract GP4G are water-soluble and compatible with this formula. You can use either, but they have different specific benefits.
Using Store Products for Non-Drying Dish Soap:
- The staff explained that making dish soap less drying typically involves using lower concentrations or milder types of surfactants. This reduces the removal of natural skin oils, but also reduces the effectiveness in removing grease from dishes.
- They suggested that the best methods to prevent dry hands when washing dishes are wearing gloves or applying hand cream immediately after washing.
Remember that consistent use of high-SPF sunscreen is crucial for managing melasma.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Active Resveratrol™
Disodium EDTA
Satin Cream Maker™
Trans-White™
LipidSoft™ CC (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate)
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
PE-1 Aqua
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
MOIST24
Adenosine Liposome
Phospholipid
Plankton Artemia Extract