Adjusted Serum Formula for Sensitive, Dry, Acne-Prone Skin
Question
I have oily skin that is currently dry, peeling, and irritated, with acne and dark spots from medication. I am developing a serum formula and need guidance.
Based on a previous discussion, I was considering a formula with ingredients like Aloe Vera Extract (10:1), Allantoin, Vitamin B5, Liquid Beta Glucan, Calendula Extract, MOIST72™, Hyaluronic Acid (Standard and Nano), Vitamin B3, and Phenoxyethanol.
Could you provide an adjusted formula (for 100g) that focuses on hydration, reducing irritation, and strengthening the skin barrier for my specific skin condition? Please also clarify the correct usage percentage for Aloe Vera Extract (10:1) (is it 0.5g or 5g based on a 10:1 ratio, or should I follow the manufacturer's recommended percentage?). Additionally, please confirm the mixing procedure, including whether ingredients should be chilled before mixing, and the appropriate concentration for Phenoxyethanol as a preservative.
Answer
Adjusted Formula for Dry, Irritated, Acne-Prone Skin (100g)
Based on your skin condition (oily but currently dry, peeling, irritated, with acne and dark spots from medication) and the previous discussion, here is an adjusted formula focusing on hydration, reducing irritation, and strengthening the skin barrier.
While you considered removing Beta Glucan and Moist72, Beta Glucan is particularly helpful for reducing irritation caused by acne medication and providing moisture. Moist72, even at a lower concentration, offers significant hydration which is crucial for your current dry state. Vitamin B3 is beneficial for the skin barrier and reducing redness and dark spots, but as discussed, start with a lower concentration like 2% if your skin is very sensitive.
Here is a suggested adjusted formula (for a total of 100g):
- Water (Distilled/Sterile): 74.7 g
- Aloe Vera Extract (10:1): 1 g
- Allantoin: 0.3 g
- Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): 3 g
- Liquid Beta Glucan (Oat Extract): 10 g
- Calendula Extract (Water Soluble): 5 g
- MOIST72™: 2 g
- Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule): 0.5 g
- Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule): 0.5 g
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 2 g
- Phenoxyethanol: 1 g
This formula keeps the beneficial Beta Glucan, reduces Moist72 to a level suitable for less extreme dryness, includes Vitamin B3 for barrier support and dark spots, and slightly increases Aloe Vera for added soothing.
Regarding Phenoxyethanol, using it at 1% is a standard and generally safe concentration for preservation, as previously recommended by the staff. Preservatives are important to prevent microbial growth in water-based formulas.
Mixing Instructions
Follow the method you previously outlined, with the adjusted water amount and the addition of Vitamin B3:
- Measure the Water (74.7 g) at room temperature.
- Add Allantoin (0.3 g), Vitamin B5 (3 g), and Vitamin B3 (2 g) to the water. Stir until completely dissolved.
- Add Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) (0.5 g) and Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule) (0.5 g) to the mixture. Close the container and shake or stir for 1-2 minutes. Refrigerate for 3-5 hours, shaking or stirring occasionally until the hyaluronic acid is fully dissolved and the mixture is clear and gel-like.
- Add Aloe Vera Extract (1 g), Liquid Beta Glucan (10 g), and Calendula Extract (5 g) to the mixture and stir until well combined.
- Add MOIST72™ (2 g) and stir until fully incorporated.
- Finally, add Phenoxyethanol (1 g) and stir to ensure it is evenly distributed.
Store the finished product according to the storage requirements of the individual ingredients, generally in a cool place away from direct sunlight.
Regarding your question about chilling ingredients before mixing, it is not strictly necessary for all ingredients to be at the same temperature before mixing, especially for water-based formulas like this. You can mix them at room temperature as described in the steps above.
This adjusted formula aims to provide deep hydration, soothe irritation, support skin barrier recovery, and help with dark spots, while being mindful of your skin's current sensitive and acne-prone state.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)