Adjusting Anti-Aging Gel Formula to Cream for Dry Skin (DMAE, Peptides)

Question

I want to make an anti-aging and skin-lifting formula based on a video I saw, which used a gel base. However, I have dry skin and am concerned about the texture. I also want to add Repair Activator™. The original formula in the video seemed to use a high concentration of DMAE.

Could you please provide a suitable cream formula for dry skin that includes anti-aging and lifting ingredients like DMAE, peptides (Pep®-Coll), and Repair Activator™? Also, please advise on the appropriate concentration for DMAE and the mixing procedure, as I've heard mixing DMAE with certain thickeners/emulsifiers can be challenging and result in a lumpy texture if mixed manually.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the information provided in the conversation, the original gel formula you saw in the video might not be the most suitable for your skin type (dry skin with wrinkles) and concerns, especially regarding the high concentration of DMAE.

Here's a summary of the feedback and recommendations:

Skin Type: Your skin is dry. A gel formula might not provide enough moisturization. It is recommended to change the formula to a cream base and add moisturizing oil.
DMAE Concentration: The original formula uses DMAE at 20%. The feedback suggests that this concentration is quite high and might cause skin irritation (redness, sensitivity), especially if you are new to using DMAE. Commercial products typically use lower concentrations (around 4-8% of the liquid form). The revised formula reduces DMAE to 8%.
Adding Repair Activator: Yes, you can add Repair Activator™ at 10%. This ingredient is included in the revised formula proposed by the staff.
Preservative: A preservative is necessary for the formula's stability and safety. Phenoxyethanol (Optiphen) is included in the formula for this purpose. Sweet Almond Oil does not act as a preservative.
Mixing: The staff provided a revised cream formula and detailed mixing instructions. They noted that mixing a formula containing DMAE and certain thickeners/emulsifiers by hand can result in a lumpy texture and is easier with a blender. They also offered an alternative cream formula without DMAE which is easier to mix manually.

Considering your dry skin and desire for anti-aging and lifting effects, the revised cream formula proposed by the staff seems more appropriate. It includes moisturizing oil, a lower concentration of DMAE, and the Repair Activator you wanted to add, along with other beneficial ingredients.

Here is the revised cream formula recommended by the staff:

Water (ส่วนที่เหลือ)
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 8%
Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) 5%
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5) 3%
Light Cream Maker™ 1.5%
Pro Polymer™ 1.5% (Helps stabilize texture with DMAE)
Sweet Almond Oil 5%
Repair Activator™ 10%
Phenoxyethanol (Optiphen) 1%

This formula aims to provide anti-aging and lifting benefits while also addressing your dry skin concerns with a cream base and added oil. Remember to follow the mixing instructions carefully, or consider the alternative formula without DMAE if manual mixing is preferred.